https://mijahandmade.com/blog daily 0.75 2026-10-24 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/how-to-choose-quilt-fabrics-modern-bird-quilt monthly 0.5 2026-10-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/4b38893a-cb87-43e9-ad4b-60a1a29d3c57/Alight+Cover+Quilt.png Blog - Three Approaches To Color : Plan Your Alight Quilt - I love designing quilt patterns that allow you to completely personalize the quilt with a one-of-a-kind fabric pull. And the Alight quilt is the epitome of this design approach! This pattern was originally designed as an exclusive pattern for the Toad Circle Mystery Quilt and Book Club. After receiving so many requests from so many quilters who want to make it, I'm thrilled to finally share it with you! One of my favorite things about this pattern is how much its personality can change depending on the fabrics you choose. Whether you love a carefully coordinated color palette or prefer to embrace a little creative chaos, I'm sharing three approaches to planning your color layout for the Alight quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/efc9e0da-60a0-4173-8019-fdda880ef078/AlightAdditional+Fabric+2.jpeg Blog - Three Approaches To Color : Plan Your Alight Quilt - 1. Keep Each Color Family Together for a Monochromatic Look If you love a cohesive, thoughtfully coordinated color story, this approach is for you. Start by choosing five color families. For each family, select one light, one medium, and one dark fabric. As you begin to sew, keep each color family together as you construct your three blocks. The result is a beautiful, balanced color story, with each row featuring its own monochromatic palette. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/be5abac6-1969-41b5-8e92-525b302358ab/Alight4+Joshua+Tree.png Blog - Three Approaches To Color : Plan Your Alight Quilt The secret to making this approach work is strong contrast between your light, medium, and dark fabrics. When the values are too similar, the patchwork details can disappear into one another. A noticeable difference in value helps the bird body and wings pop off the patchwork, while still giving the overall block that lovely, unified monochromatic effect. Try this if you enjoy planning your fabric combinations and want a quilt that feels coordinated and calm. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/bdc3ff89-6993-4f40-98f1-b1ebb0c22f20/AlightWeek+1.jpeg Blog - Three Approaches To Color : Plan Your Alight Quilt - 2. Mix Up Your Color Families for a Playful, Colorful Quilt Want something a little more unexpected? Try mixing your color families together! Just as with the first approach, start by selecting five color families, each with a light, medium, and dark fabric. But instead of keeping each family together during the block construction, mix and match the fabrics. The goal is to use one light, one medium, and one dark fabric in each block, but those fabrics can come from entirely different color families. This is the approach I used when I made the cover quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/887ac68c-bd1d-429a-8964-cc21beeb16c0/Quilted+Alight+Cover+Quilt.png Blog - Three Approaches To Color : Plan Your Alight Quilt This creates a colorful, jumbled color story. The blocks feel connected through their value structure (light, medium, dark), but the colors flit around the quilt in a way that feels spontaneous and playful. And here's the best part: when you’re building your fabric pull, you don't have to be quite as precise about coordinating the values across each color family. As long as each block has a recognizable light, medium, and dark, you have more freedom to experiment with unexpected color combinations. Try this if you love colorful quilts, enjoy mixing unexpected fabrics, and want a little more freedom when putting your palette together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5683a492-43ed-4079-a613-c590188dac38/AlightAdditional+Fabric.jpeg Blog - Three Approaches To Color : Plan Your Alight Quilt - 3. Throw the Rules Out the Window and Choose Fabrics You Love Sometimes the best fabric pull is simply a collection of fabrics that makes you happy. This color layout isn’t strictly in the pattern. But because the idea is “throw all the rules away” it’s not hard to figure out! For this approach, skip the process of organizing your fabrics into color families, and skip the step about using one light, medium and dark value in each block. Instead, choose 15 different fabrics that you love and start sewing! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/43b156e8-f00a-4f64-ae4a-64d6eb95a8ae/Alight3+Quilted.png Blog - Three Approaches To Color : Plan Your Alight Quilt You can still pay attention to contrast as you work, but there's no need to build perfectly coordinated piles of fabric before you begin. This means less time planning and more time quilting! Let your favorite prints, colors, and combinations guide you. Try this if you love ignoring rules and letting your fabrics guide you. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/vacation-destination-inspired-fabric-pulls monthly 0.5 2026-10-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/4b38893a-cb87-43e9-ad4b-60a1a29d3c57/Alight+Cover+Quilt.png Blog - Five Vacation Destination Inspired Fabric Pulls Several people in my life have recently become avid birders. I don’t know that it’s my next hobby, but I can appreciate their enthusiasm! Since my loved ones are always thinking about birds, which birds are in town, what birds are going where… that got me thinking: if I could take flight and spend a season anywhere in the world, where would I go? That question inspired five fabric pulls for my Alight quilt pattern, each one inspired by a dream vacation destination. From peaceful lakeside retreats to sun-soaked desert escapes, I wanted to explore how a change in color palette could give the same quilt pattern an entirely different personality. Whether you're drawn to cool, nature-inspired hues, cozy cabin colors, or a playful retro palette, I hope these destination-inspired color ways spark some ideas for your next quilt! Pack your imaginary suitcase, and let's take a look at five places that inspired these fabric combinations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b4ef4c7c-416d-47d3-a036-55479d74b9c9/Alight2+Lakehouse.png Blog - Five Vacation Destination Inspired Fabric Pulls - 1) Lakehouse We’re starting off strong with a color chaos approach. I have to admit, I’ve not spent a lot of time on a lake, but I wouldn’t say no to a week long vacation on Lake Tahoe. When I was pulling these fabrics together, I couldn’t resist the playful balance of earth tones here. Plenty of water and green colors, with a joyful pop of peach and yellows. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2c2e0010-9b73-4c6a-bb42-0a48c57e02bc/Alight3+Quilted.png Blog - Five Vacation Destination Inspired Fabric Pulls - 2) Paradise Palms I dream of living in a mid century modern home. Until then, I can just scroll through Zillow listings in Paradise Palms. I stayed away from the typical light and bright blues associated with mid-mod decor, and introduced a wine and a soft purple. I thought this could complement the oranges and olive greens typically found in MCM palettes. This version shows off color chaos approach of the Alight quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0ca8f834-404f-4ac3-be33-ac5f43bd8846/Alight1+Cabin.png Blog - Five Vacation Destination Inspired Fabric Pulls - 3) Highlands Lodge Can you tell I really love color chaos? This is the last version with this approach, I promise. Catch me in the right mood and I’ll tell you that I love tartan, wool textiles and rainy days. When I’m in those kind of moods, I want to be snuggled under a quilt like this in a great room filled with generations-old tapestries, photo albums of royalty and a roaring fire. I imagine the lodge is full of brass yellows, warm greens and rich browns. I added in a few orangey-reds, just enough pop to make it interesting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b88b4eba-38ba-4e22-b4a9-67b73d491b23/Alight5+Sedona.png Blog - Five Vacation Destination Inspired Fabric Pulls - 4) Sedona With its rust rocks, bright sun lit skies and rich foliage, I would fall in love with the dusty colors of Sedona. Hours-long hikes surrounded by majestic geography is my idea of a good time. Which makes this the most realistic vacation spot for me! This version uses the monochromatic mania color approach. By keeping the color families together, the quilt top feels calm and soothing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/dc4ae12a-04d7-465b-a72e-8a21cd910521/Alight4A+Sedona.png Blog - Five Vacation Destination Inspired Fabric Pulls Let’s check out what this same color palette looks like with the same exact fabrics, but a different color approach. This version mixes up the color families, but still uses the light-medium-dark value play to keep structure in the design. This introduces much more movement to the quilt top. The colors still feel cohesive, but the calm and orderly feelings from the first version give way to lots of smaller color conversations in this version. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/be5abac6-1969-41b5-8e92-525b302358ab/Alight4+Joshua+Tree.png Blog - Five Vacation Destination Inspired Fabric Pulls - 5) Joshua Tree I’ve driven through Joshua Tree, but I’d go back for a long weekend in a heartbeat! This California desert inspired version uses the same fabrics as the cover quilt, but instead of mixing up the fabrics across the blocks, the fabrics stay in their color families. The sun bleached light-values, earthy dark values and dramatic accent colors perfectly celebrate the balance of arid environment and vibrant plant life throughout Joshua Tree. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/boho-patchwork-quilted-tote-bag monthly 0.5 2026-10-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f7bfb28a-4183-44a8-aa22-2eac92304b48/Bohemian+Patchwork+tote+bag Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas I wanted this quilted tote bag to feel a little bohemian and a little modern, with lots of pattern and color. Rather than choosing a single fabric for the exterior, I turned bandana scraps into patchwork panels. I ordered the bandana scrap bundle from Handker Bandanas, assuming I’d get a bunch of small scraps. Not so! The scraps I got were quite large. They look like they are 26" square panels that were cut wrong. This made my job a lot easier, as I didn’t need to piece a bunch of small squares. Instead, I pieced the large panels into slightly wonky, oversized four patches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ac30bc36-c7f8-4dee-8399-d68c9ef94ced/Boho+Tote+Bag+Mija+Handmade Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas The different prints gave the bag plenty of visual interest, while a the warm palette of teal, green, mustard, and rust helped bring everything together. I love how the fabrics feel eclectic without looking random. Each bandana has its own personality, but the colors create a cohesive finished bag. I made sure to throw in a fair amount of blue to keep the colors from feeling overwhelmingly warm. I’m particularly proud of the light blue quilting cotton I used to binding the top. I found this in my stash and it ended up being the perfect finishing touch to the project. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3398ef82-6ba8-4dae-b3eb-6cba2ecd3703/Boho+Tote+Bag+Mija+Handmade Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas One of my favorite details is the front zipper pocket, which features a Lemoyne quilt block. I almost omitted this exterior zipper pocket, but I’m so glad I kept it. I knew the quilt block wouldn’t fit in its entirety, so I offset the block and added some quilting lines to echo the star shape. Using the quilt block for the front zipper pocket gives the bag a focal point and adds another layer of handmade detail to the patchwork exterior. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2722a58b-8cc2-4d2d-8c2f-ab0731c43e3a/Boho+tote+Bag+Mija+Handmade Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas I also paid attention to the smaller design decisions, like pattern matching the fabric across the top zipper insert to show off a floral motif in the bandanas. I think it’s probably the most impactful construction decision I made and it totally elevates the finished bag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908632661-JYVGBFEGWY19S4BQJ6TN/Large+Tote+13.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908620371-VW36CD44ECDCD5GBZJ8I/Large+Tote+10.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908725312-LVIVJ75ZMCWKX857I9JD/Large+Tote+14.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908738249-VGOKT57379Q1DENUMX1O/Large+Tote+12.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908770659-UAHC3BWSHYVV5G7EVDIW/Large+Tote+4.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908779989-5JUFTLKNKNN8KZTUVBK5/Large+Tote+5.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908785871-DSPVCQ0518AW3NYQ6TWR/Large+Tote+6.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791908843782-89NG6INMRLXJ4RT9Z3T0/Large+Tote+11.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0c44be91-75d2-46e3-b981-7883816be249/2026-SewPINK-BlogCalendar Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas What I love most about this bag is how all the details work together: the bandana patchwork, the Lemoyne quilt block, the warm color palette, and the finishing touches might feel like too much in theory, but looking at it all together… it just works! Taking part in ByAnnie's #Sew made the project even more meaningful. I love being part of a sewing community that uses creativity to bring people together around causes that matter. The #SewPINK Initiative’s mission is to raise awareness, promote screenings, foster community, and support cancer research throughout the year. Efforts culminate in an annual blog hop during October’s Breast Cancer Awareness Month, but the commitment to cancer awareness and support continues year-round. To learn more and see the calendar of events, visit: https://www.ByAnnie.com/SewPINK https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791905013792-3DFMLC5G5UU7KPQ53WC3/Pack+It+In.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791905094966-W8GS55ZOCQDH3OVBXZA8/Basket+Reverse.jpeg Blog - How I Made a Boho Patchwork Tote Bag from Leftover Bandanas https://mijahandmade.com/blog/stay-organized-with-the-lillette-quilt monthly 0.5 2026-10-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3b3edfeb-ee8a-40e2-b3da-8bb009b45fe0/Lillette+Stay+Organized.png Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b8488aab-47e7-428e-90e5-a166e284b306/Full+Lillette+Quilt.png Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting One thing I’ve noticed as my quilting skills have advanced and I write more intermediate patterns, is that it’s important for our quilting organization skills to advance as well. But the typical intermediate pattern doesn’t include intermediate tips for how to keep quilt blocks organized. I want to change that! I want to share some of the quilt block management skills I’ve learned on my quilting journey. And I’ll show you how I put these into practice using the Lillette quilt pattern as an example. My very first tip is that any quilter, of any skill, can tackle any project. All it takes is a dash of patience and confidence, and you can easily quilt your way through any pattern. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790959177138-0YBPCRO6CF003WXGMLSA/Lilltte+1.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790959177501-YRZFZI2BOOE0415QWKDN/Lillette+2.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790959622935-YIJ90GFFBZDP31UIQT5A/Lillette+3.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting In the Lillette quilt, you’ll notice that the three L-shaped flower motifs will use the same fabrics, but in different places of the block. Like lots of intermediate quilt patterns, this means you might get confused while piecing. To minimize confusion, I suggest only cutting three fabrics at a time, then sew up all these blocks before cutting into the next set of fabrics. In these pictures, you can see that I’ve laid out three FQs. I’ll cut these three at the same time, making sure to use a fresh blade to cleanly slice through all the multiple layers of fabric. Not only does this help you stay organized, it allows you to treat the first block as a test block. Any mistakes you make in this first block can be avoided in the next block! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791129773272-1Y5CBMIWUOG7TBEVTM0B/Lillette+4.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791129772782-K7M08AFCY3VS6GPK04H7/Lillette+6.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791130000555-4QB237L14IYV3P6BBLK5/Asset+1.jpg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791130199640-QVOQCN5L5G27EZ1IFOQR/Lillette+22.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790960232188-9WJCAKU3FJ82I1JW64SG/Lillette+7.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790961224094-FDH9V33ALUXM3B337JVC/Lillette+8.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790961223943-E0PJ21LWG4LEU4KA08QG/Lillette+9.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790962900870-NZ604BX8RNQBXM5PVMB4/Lillette+10.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790962899238-JWWXE9BVF8N5NFBQUX3S/Lillette+11.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790962898870-443DNE14EOVHMY2M08T2/Lillette+12.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/cac450a5-ff47-4182-aeaf-33d08d67e6ff/Lillette+13.jpeg Blog - Quilt Organization Tips: How to Stay Organized While Quilting What do you think of those tips? If you feel ready to jump into an intermediate quilt pattern, the Lillette quilt is a perfect place to put these skills into practice. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/steal-my-lillette-quilting-design monthly 0.5 2026-10-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9e53d350-2462-4ae2-ac80-38f1ff83e961/Lillette+Steal+My+Quilting+Design.png Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/cac450a5-ff47-4182-aeaf-33d08d67e6ff/Lillette+13.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt - Can I share a secret with you? I desperately wish that I had hand quilted the Lillette quilt! I’ve reached a point with quilting where I truly want to hand quilt every quilt top. I’ve been incredibly slow to release this pattern, so I decided to quilt it on my domestic machine to speed up the release. I’m not sure how much machine quilting I’ll do in the future… I say that now, but who knows what future deadlines will hold! Regardless of how you decide to finish your Lillette quilt, I encourage you to steal my quilting design. I worked pretty hard to figure this one out, and hope to see this on your quilt tops soon! Download the FREE quilting guide and circle templates (more details below) and keep reading to learn how to transfer the design to your quilt top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791041529685-WOAUE63K2C0WAJPM46H6/Lillette+Quilting+Plan+Baby.jpg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791041541259-D1VLBU1GNPZYM0IZHVVH/Lillette+Quilting+Plan+Small+throw.jpg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791041555600-9VYXMYQVT8INRT38Q5FY/Lillette+Quilting+Plan+Large+Throw.jpg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790965254985-20GMAWMXCETERNZGODLB/Lillette+14.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790965255847-SVUQQU3ASTD20T8QWXZH/Lillette+15.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790965259056-2IAQ7W4L0WIRXTZP730K/Lillette+16.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1790965263105-6ZF23KK29VPRB7ZME8VG/Lillette+17.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791041044429-4QIZVF6NSWISLU5OYOR3/Lillette+19.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791041043897-T9O419YOTWD3CD8SE1FK/Lillette+18.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1791041315260-K1U9WDGHOXHKT4Y4O0HH/Lillette+21.jpeg Blog - Modern Hand Quilting Design: A Simple Guide to Quilting Your Lillette Quilt https://mijahandmade.com/blog/lillette-quilt-color-inspiration monthly 0.5 2026-10-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d5344af4-a0e0-4e71-80c3-441639a8e9f5/Lillette+Quilt+Fabric+Pull+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1080186d-1546-456e-8c72-066390c084aa/Pop+Art+Quilt+Color+Palette+Lillette+Quilt+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own - Pop Art with Ruby Star Society Solids Goldfish, Balmy, Pale Peach Cocoa, Goldenrod, Sunshine Sprout, Pistachio, Goldenhour Playful, June, Peony Witchy, Heliotrope, Macaron Blue Ribbon, Lindley Blue, Evening Teal, Bright Blue, Frost Teal Navy, Galaxy, Turquoise https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/08f27e32-c2d6-4f3b-a901-92ccc38f3785/Casual+Elegance+Lillette+Quilt+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own - Casual Elegance with Suzy Signature Solids Haze, Spiced, Snapdragon Poppy, Queen Bee, Ginger Velvet, Thistle, Monet Truffle, Driftwood, Pearl Nova, Honeymoon, Cerulean Hemlock, Matcha, Pistachio Northern Waters, Ocean Fog, Glacier Apple Cider, Dried Carrot, Shrimpy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c4202ec5-16df-4251-8dce-8e074d08d4aa/Moody+Botanical+Lillette+Quilt+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own - Moody Botanical with AGF PURE Solids Potters Clay, Sugar Plum, Blushing Slate, Atmospheric, Periwinkle Magnetism, Balsam Fir, Meditation Dusk, Stargazing, Cosmos Dusk, Intergalactic, Daydreamer Galactic Grey, Rosemary, Fresh Aloe Mediterraneo, Denim Blue, Tranquil Waters Wisteria, Overcast, Daybreak https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a4510327-8caa-4bbc-a6da-e495c25d7e53/Woodland+Whimsy+Lillette+Quilt+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own - Woodland Whimsy with Moda Bella Solids Mushroom, Fawn, Cobblestone Cypress, Lichen, Pear, Pumpkin, Chai, Dijon Rose Wine, English Rose, Cotton Candy Raven, Nickel, Driftwood Nectarine, Peach Fizz, Pearl Juniper, Cucumber, Mint Deep Burgundy, Blush, Bubblegum https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a1de9025-aa77-4896-b436-22f8d1474b26/Vintage+Garden+Lillette+Quilt+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own - Vintage Garden with AGF PURE Solids Candied Cherry, Olive Oil, Ethereal Pink Potters Clay, Vaporous, Morning Frost Golden Bronze, Miami Sunset, Celestial Peacock, Summer Sun, Latte Lakefront, Blossomed, Periwinkle Garden Fern, Marmalade, Coconut Milk Sweet Fig, Asparagus, Chamomile Pampas, Skylit, buttermilk https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/89355b37-827a-478a-9483-88e8daf908a3/Mid+Century+Modern+Lillette+Quilt+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own - Midcentury Modern with Moda Bella Solids Blue, Brown, Celery Dusty Jade, Scarlet, Parchment Fig Tree Wheat, Fig Tree Olive, Fig Tree Cream Pond, Peach, Ivory Kansas Red, Hay, Etchings Stone Kansas Green, Citrine, Ruby Ice Blush, Together Tan, Porcelain Plum, Platinum, Soft Yellow https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/199ccb84-d30d-454a-956b-45d740aba9f6/Story+book+Christmas+quilt+colors+Lillette+Quilt+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Quilt Color Palette Ideas: 7 Ways To Make This Quilt Your Own - Storybook Christmas with AGF PURE Solids Peacock, Raw Gold, Peach Sherbet London Red, Ocean Fog, Chamomile Hunter Fields, Potters Clay, Quartz Pink Candied Cherry, Pacific, Sweet Macadamia Eucalyptus, Mink, Creme de la Creme Ruby, Cinnamon, Fresh Sage Coffee Bean, Lemon Tart, Morning Frost Magnetism, Aurora Red, Toasty Walnut https://mijahandmade.com/blog/bow-big-stitch-binding monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5e7ee846-a848-46dd-a059-338c3b6311db/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-12.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial I’m a sucker for hand binding my quilts! I love a criss cross stitch, but lately have been looking for something a little ✨ extra✨. After looking around for some good inspiration, I spotted this bow embroidery stitch and immediately knew it would be perfect for finishing off any modern quilt pattern! If you’ve been looking for something new and special for your quilts, I’ve got you covered. I’ve broken down each step of this stitch so you can put a bow on your next quilt project! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/916bed51-9598-48fa-be04-a84762a0847a/Required+Materials.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial Required Thread: I like #8 Wonderful Perle Cotton Needle: I’m currently testing out John James Chenille needles, size 22 Completed project with binding already attached Optional Thimble Thread Gloss: I prefer Ponderosa Thread Gloss Bohin 3-in-1 needle puller tool Needle minder https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ca5f0c69-d615-40e1-ae41-3c5d038a76f0/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-1.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Mark 7 points as shown in the photo. I prefer for my big stitch to enclose the edge of the binding, so I’ve marked points 6 and 7 off the edge of the binding. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/91b86f48-946b-48fa-804a-0390c92aaa36/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-2.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - In the subsequent photos, I indicate “In” which means push the needle through the fabric, and “Out” which means the needle exits the fabric. As always, make sure your needle never passes through the front layer to show on the opposite side of the quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d9fc31d9-f0a5-4f8a-bcb1-631a56814639/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-3.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Push the needle through point 2 and exit at point 3. I like to catch only the binding material in this step. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/72bc8cd5-8f24-45bd-aebe-7c41a86e7d09/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-4.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Push the needle through point 4 and exit at point 1, exactly where you took your first stitch. Catch only the binding fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2b739c5f-0876-452e-90a6-7aa9913b163f/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-5.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Push the needle through point 4 again and exit at point 2, exactly at the existing stitch. This time, catch the backing fabric and batting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/57efdd0d-6877-4b6b-9fa4-306c0a105bf7/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-6.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Push the needle back through point 3 and exit at point 5, catching all backing and batting layers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3fdb4d01-2f96-42fe-87b0-5bda3583e6aa/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-7.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Gather the bottom thread by passing the needle under it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d5fafc82-4b6d-450d-8136-673a9cd599bd/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-8.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Gather the top thread by passing the needle under it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b3291188-879a-4348-89aa-ff04ad16a82e/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-9.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Push the needle back through point 5 and exit at point 6. Pass the needle through all backing and batting layers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b30e3154-25bd-4780-823d-d8e9a661f0fc/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-10.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Push the needle back through point 5 and exit at point 7. Pass the needle through all backing and batting layers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5f91b794-a673-4e2d-a23d-8f6d2b5e2f69/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding+Tutorial-11.png Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Push the needle back through point 5, then exit at the starting point for your next stitch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f597d863-c296-4846-afc1-58756e9ade63/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding.jpg Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Your bow big stitch is complete! I choose to alternate one bow with three criss cross stitches, just to add some visual texture to this project. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d2f6ad80-e115-4815-8a74-e8bb03a729e1/Basket+Hand+Stitching.jpeg Blog - Bow Big Stitch Binding Tutorial - Hand stitches like this can be used in so many different places! I love to use it on home decor projects that require binding, like these quilted Jack O’lantern Baskets, which are perfect for spooky season decorating! https://mijahandmade.com/blog/easy-no-math-flanged-pillow-tutorial monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3bde5483-65e7-4d21-a1fe-791d731f72cc/Silly+Goose+Pillow7.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever This is the easiest flanged pillow tutorial ever. Like seriously so easy. There’s no math involved. And all you need is a quilt block or a fabric panel for the front, a scrap piece of fabric slightly bigger than the block for the back, and some poly-fill. I know lots of tutorials for envelope or zipper closure pillows exist, but sometimes I can’t be bothered with all those instructions. Sometimes I just want to slap some fabric together and call it done! I used my Silly Goose quilt block pattern and added a checkerboard to the outside of the block. I made several strip sets from 2½" scrap strips and turned those into sixteen 4-patches. This turned a 12" x 12" block into 20" x 20" square. Use a practice block from a quilt pattern, a panel that you really love, or even just a fat quarter with a really cute print. It doesn’t matter the size because this project doesn’t require math! Whatever size or shape you decide on, you can follow all the steps below to create a beautiful throw pillow in under 30 minutes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/11295c71-08d5-4153-8226-22078f66c4ad/Silly+Goose+Pillow2.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever First things first. I have to admit that I can be incredibly lazy when it comes to a quick project. I really wanted this pillow project to be a fast project. So I decided to not quilt my patchwork block. If you really prefer a quilted pillow, you could quilt your block before you get started. The steps will be exactly the same, you’ll just have bulkier seams. Once you have a quilt block or square of fabric you want to use for the front of the pillow, lay it right sides together on the backing fabric. I kept mine in place with my trusty dumbbells. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c850184f-ab62-42ed-abdd-906c854097ab/Silly+Goose+Pillow3.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever Align a ruler with the raw edges of the pillow front, and simply cut the backing fabric to match. Repeat this on all four sides of the pillow front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/92d9ae3a-7f0b-43a2-bf69-f9293c16372c/Silly+Goose+Pillow4.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever The resulting units should be two squares that are the same size and are right sides together. See? I promised no math! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e106262e-a808-4421-88f7-9b2cb9a7f369/Silly+Goose+Pillow5.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever Without moving or rearranging the units, pin the edges together. Sew around the edges with a ¼" seam allowance. Make sure to leave a 4" to 5" gap - it looks nice if you leave this gap at the bottom of the pillow (if there is a bottom to your fabric or block). Turn the block right side out and make the corners look sharp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0b0864f3-30b0-4e07-b84c-bce0ce95734b/Silly+Goose+Pillow6.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever This step is where we create the flange of the pillow. Since I have checkerboard piecing at the exterior of my square, I decided the seam of the flange would fall right on the middle seam of the patchwork (see the black line in this photo). I made sure everything was pressed and laid flat, then secured everything with pins. If you’re using a solid piece of fabric or a panel, you could use a marking tool to draw straight lines 1" or 2" in from the edges, and pin along your marked lines. Sew along the marked lines, leaving another gap exactly where the first gap is. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3bde5483-65e7-4d21-a1fe-791d731f72cc/Silly+Goose+Pillow7.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever Fill the inner pocket with your poly-fill. Do not add poly-fill to the exterior flange. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7ec2f0fd-d0e8-4644-910b-48f9956c9f16/Silly+Goose+Pillow8.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever Once the pillow is filled to your desired fullness, close the interior gap by pinning the front and back together and sewing shut. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/68079746-bdb2-4d04-8dbf-be437e5327ee/Silly+Goose+Pillow9.jpeg Blog - Easiest Pillow Tutorial Ever Finally, close the exterior gap by folding the seam allowance in and finishing with a top stitch around the entire edge. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/hold-my-heart-quilt-block monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/07522bea-621b-4f8e-af25-18577ec73b93/Hold+My+Heart+Quilt+Block+Mija+Handmade Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block Meet the Hold My Heart quilt block! This idea for a heart themed quilt block has been bopping around my brain for a while. A couple split quarter square triangles and quarter square triangle blocks gives the impression of a checkerboard heart. While the pattern only includes instructions to make one 12" x 12" quilt block, it’s pretty easy to figure out the math to make a full quilt top. Keep reading to learn all about how to calculate yardage for a full quilt top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0c69a974-cb93-4321-9429-f00a2ee71eb2/Hold+My+Heart+AGF2.png Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block Designed to be scrappy, you can quickly turn this block into a gorgeous quilt top. If you like this version, here’s how to calculate the background fabric requirements for any size quilt. Multiply the number of blocks you want to make by 4.5. Divide this number by 36, then round up for overage. For example, if you want to make a 20 block quilt top, follow these steps. 1) 20 blocks * 4.5 = 90 2) 90 ÷ 36 = 2.5 3) Round up to the nearest common cut = 2¾ yards This mock up uses Fairview Avenue fabric by Bari J. for Art Gallery Fabrics. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a5343df0-f8c7-4635-bd78-58c97aec8a35/Hold+My+Heart+Checkerboard2.png Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block Option B is perfect if you don’t have tons of yardage in your stash. By mixing up the background colors, you don’t need as much yardage. Here’s how to calculate the background fabric requirements for this version. 1) 10 blocks * 4.5 = 45 2) 45 ÷ 36 = 1.25 3) Round up to the nearest common cut = 1½ yards Consider 1½ yards for each background fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/20c58968-2954-4009-98fd-21c1c7d970ad/Hold+My+Heart+baby+size+quilt Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block I was looking for a real stash buster of a project, so I committed to a baby size quilt. I wanted to embrace the scrappy inspiration, so each block uses a different background color. There’s no fabric calculation for a version like this, making it the easiest option for scrappy quilters! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1769191236596-HQBG0V6WDGPBKARM9EWF/Hold+My+Heart1.jpeg Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block - Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1769191235320-JS6NIXT0ZYNRR3PTDC6E/Hold+My+Heart2.jpeg Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block - Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1769191253138-F2NJ3043PQB9VJOZL2CU/Hold+My+Heart3.jpeg Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block - Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1769191258854-RX4JIN7IKMQO7EQX3JJN/Hold+My+Heart4.jpeg Blog - Hold My Heart Quilt Block - Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade Hold My Heart quilt block Mija Handmade https://mijahandmade.com/blog/free-silly-goose-stocking-template monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/73a1a222-068e-406a-a69e-c5f26dbf4782/SillyGooseStocking2.jpeg Blog - FREE Silly Goose Stocking Template Nothing makes my heart happier than Christmas Geese! I’m always looking for was to show off what is possibly my favorite quilt block, the Silly Goose block. And this holiday season - I’m turning them into stockings! I’ve made a FREE stocking template specifically to show off the Silly Goose quilt block. And I want to share it with you! The template provides instructions to make three different stockings. The stockings are lined, and finish at 12" x 19", a perfect size for all your gift giving needs! Let me show off each one so you can pick your favorite style. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/887e1eb8-08ed-44a8-9682-b13aa08733c2/SillyGooseStockingOptionA.jpeg Blog - FREE Silly Goose Stocking Template By adding fabric to the top and bottom of the Silly Goose block, Option A keeps the Silly Goose patchwork centered in the stocking. This is a great layout for showing off your favorite medium scale holiday print! I hand quilted this with a clamshell design. I used blue thread to pick up on the hints of blue in the background print. And I used black fabric for the goose so the quilting would be sure to contrast. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3ca9134e-80a7-4847-b4a2-4c3e4d96e309/SillyGooseStockingOptionB.jpeg Blog - FREE Silly Goose Stocking Template Option B is perfect for bigger scale prints. To make this version, you’ll add a large rectangle to the top of the Silly Goose block. The large piece of fabric gives those big motifs room to shine at the top of the stocking. I wanted the fabric to be the focus of this one, so I kept the quilting simple with some diagonal lines in a matching thread color. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/bdd1575a-52ae-47ba-b1c9-de2dd5cd2f71/SillyGooseStockingOptionC.jpeg Blog - FREE Silly Goose Stocking Template Option C is perfect for patchwork lovers! Similar to Option B, this version keeps the Silly Goose at the bottom of the stocking, but adds checkerboard piecing to the top. The checkerboard uses the same fabric as the goose body and bandana. I hand quilted this with a colorful plaid design, using thread colors that match the background family to keep the colors cohesive. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/a-hauntingly-cute-halloween-tablescape monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759018268788-Y78OFI9EJC1NFVRFGT5F/Basket+Stack1.jpeg Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759017981584-S5X8E03CZDZYI2I8UTN0/Basket+Nesting.jpeg Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759017993538-CCMO9W4X2GOGUBCKVBOF/Basket+SidebySide.jpeg Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759018109272-6MU9UF9O7KES51Q5NSIT/Basket+Side.jpeg Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/4b052101-0667-42c5-bb0a-a018a5c7a6de/Mija+Handmade+Tablescape Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape - Make it stand out Who has the spookiest tablescape in town? You will after adding these spooky baskets! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7a383811-0c60-4deb-8074-ae00a2c5d6e1/MijaHandmade+Pump+Queen+Basket+Project Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape Keep your table organized AND ominous with this nesting basket made with the Pump Queen quilt block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/24f284f7-f713-4d44-9678-34c70ff27b60/MijaHandmade+Pump+Queen Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape The large basket makes the best emergency plant pot! Potted flowers are my favorite, last-minute decoration. And now you don’t have to worry about repotting them before guests arrive. Just toss the whole thing into the basket to hide the plastic pot. I’ve decorated mine with some creepy chains to add some macabre mystery to my table. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d90471d5-92c8-4102-ad5d-73cbc2458b3a/MijaHandmade+Nesting+Basket+Project Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape Don’t we always need a catch all when hosting friends? Put the basket lids around the house and fill them with cocktail napkins, mints, or have your guests toss their phones in to keep them distraction free throughout the evening. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759020043759-DQH67U8B755OG7CGE16N/Basket+Med+with+candy.jpeg Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759020057092-SV8OFYEK7KOPZT2YE78O/Basket+Lg+with+Candy.jpeg Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/71c5c52c-e265-4a2b-a3cc-42023f53bc2b/2025SewPINKBlogCalendarSummary-white-s.jpg Blog - A Hauntingly Cute Halloween Tablescape - About #SewPink The #SewPink Initiative's mission is to raise awareness for cancer throughout the year. Efforts culminate in an annual blog hop during October’s Breast Cancer Awareness Month to promote self-care, awareness, early detection and support for those affected by breast cancer. To learn more and see the calendar of events visit: https://www.ByAnnie.com/SewPINK https://mijahandmade.com/blog/quilted-jackolantern-baskets monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759069884990-JQST1L8XJ1AEKEA17GXE/Basket+SidebySide.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759069876120-JT8HQGTPUORV2GMU76F2/Basket+Side.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759069887824-X818JJDSKDKOXC5TBKPM/Basket+Nesting.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759069895064-70IN95KTDFK0NVWET4HM/Basket+Stack1.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/613292f9-abdd-431c-ab59-6077e48ffe14/Pump+Queen Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets I made the large and medium size baskets. The center round of the Pump Queen pattern is the perfect size for the medium size basket - you don’t have to add any of the background fabric or sew any curves for the quilt block. Just sew up all the A1 pieces and use the ByAnnie template to trim the Pump Queen block to the size of the medium lid. For the large basket, the center round of the Pump Queen is just too small for the lid. I added the background curve unit because I didn’t yet know how much background fabric would show. But you could skip this step entirely by adding more A1 squares around the exterior. I believe you will need 24 additional A1 squares. Now that I say that, you could probably skip the four A1 squares at the corners, as those would be entirely trimmed off by the basket lid template. I haven’t tested this, so I encourage you to double check before trimming away. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7507d8b3-2b78-4a27-951c-102633614b3c/Patchwork1.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets I have an entire series of blog posts to teach you how to make the Pump Queen quilt block - check them out for the step-by-step instructions, including how to pick fabrics, tackling the triangles, and web-piecing methods. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/404e804e-6e9f-4ba7-b80c-7510b311d913/Basket+Adding+binding.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets I originally sewed the pattern as written, serging the edges and assembling the lids so that the serged edges are hidden on the inside. After sitting with that for a bit, I seam ripped it and re-sewed it so that I could add binding to the Pump Queen side. I followed this tutorial to make bias binding and used a 12" square for each basket. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759073372087-FVX74V1GUVRNU2OS1G4Q/Basket+Medium.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1759073323421-7KDVR9H3F1XR7QETZ7TB/Basket+Reverse.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d2f6ad80-e115-4815-8a74-e8bb03a729e1/Basket+Hand+Stitching.jpeg Blog - Quilted Jack-o-lantern Baskets By adding binding, not only are these lids fully reversible, I could add my new, favorite hand-finishing accents. I simply cannot resist finishing binding by hand and using my favorite big stitches. Just make sure you machine stitch the binding to the lid side, not the basket side. I was really outdid myself on this project - I used two colors of #8 WonderFil Perle Cotton thread to add to the Halloween candy colors of the Starry fabric. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/block-widow-fabric-inspiration monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ca365f08-2808-46c7-8834-c80ba146fdc3/BlockWidowSquareWhiteBrick.png Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration The Block Widow pattern releases in just a few days, on September 22! And I wanted to make sure you have plenty of fabric inspiration for this quilt. The bigger the quilt size, the more FQs are needed to make the quilt. If you love pulling in lots of fabrics, go for the large throw, and the scrappy spider version. If you like using fewer fabrics, I’d recommend the small throw, one-color spider version. This way, you can focus on a scrappy background and easily pick out a contrasting fabric for the spider. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0cf68f60-255c-4bb9-98bc-f8349122f813/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration Washi Plus by Rashida Coleman Hale is hitting stores right now, and with these candy color fabrics, I couldn’t help but mock this up! If you like this version, the blue, orange, yellow and pink fabrics make a great scrappy background. Keep the cream fabrics for the spider body. In this version, I used the Roll With It in Natural for the spider body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/93850114-2298-4d49-9b76-8006b132b9a4/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration I honestly can’t choose between a dark spider and a light spider, so I had to include two versions of Washi Plus. The dark spider body looks best when the scrappy background fabrics don’t use the other the dark fabrics from the line. Focusing on the light blues, pinks and yellows help emphasize the contrast between the background and the main spider motif. I used the darkest print in the line, Washi in Bluebell, for the spider body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/6fb08975-38a6-4981-b901-64d154cf06bb/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration I would like to pat myself on the back for this mockup! I have a hard time using cool colors, but when I pulled up the Hello Alice line by Sarah Watts, these rich purples just called out to be made into a Halloween quilt. Save the lighter fabrics for the spider body - in this version I used the Falling Aces in Shell for the spider. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/00ce10a8-6202-405f-8053-9685d98ae359/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration The Geometry collaboration line has had my heart ever since I first saw it. I love the Grandpa’s closet vibes these prints bring to the Block Widow pattern. I’ve mocked up up with speckled in the spider body and spider accent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e4ca4eb6-3542-410c-b64f-2d9f4e68bd57/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration I haven’t worked with wovens too much, but the straightforward assembly of the Block Widow lends itself to working well with them. Here, I’ve used Wildflower Wovens by Suzy Quilts to create a cozy cottage vibe. If you go this route, use the light cream color for the spider body, and you’ll have to repeat a few colors in the background, as there are fewer fabrics in this line than the large throw calls for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/55c82761-cb16-43ca-a883-05e1afc26630/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration We’re straying far from the Halloween vibes of the quilt, but I just love the romantic background patchwork with Marigold fabrics by Maureen Cracknell. There’s something interesting about the contrast between the charming florals and spider design… it reminds me of Charlotte’s Web. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/fc3a0efe-c816-4125-ab9d-d264a782eeb4/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration Ok back to my roots! Halloween prints. Art Gallery Fabrics always puts out the sweetest, spookiest prints. If you like these fabrics, use the prints that are heavy on the black and white in the background, and save the orange prints for the spider body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/afe91dc9-0d33-448a-b042-86487b266d59/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration Kona Cottons always has the greatest variety of solids. Here are the colors I’ve used in this small throw mock up: Background: Acid Lime Aloe Candy Pink Dahlia Gumdrop Honeysuckle Orchid Pool Spider Body and Accent Celestial Natural https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f0fffbba-c35b-4d5d-8e5e-2513c837d80c/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration I can’t picture a more perfect Halloween palette than these Tula Pink solids. This is a baby size mock up that uses the following fabrics: Background: Cosmo Hibiscus Limeade Pear Persimmon Sweet Pea Taffy Tula Spider Body and Accent Diva Glacier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/fcd9353a-e452-4ac3-88a0-30bba8dfce94/Block+Widow+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - Block Widow Fabric Inspiration These Pop solids remind me of hard candies like Smarties or Pez! Here are the colors used in this small throw mockup: Apricot Daffodil Lime Petal Pink Rose Sunshine Spider Body and Accent Crocus Saffron https://mijahandmade.com/blog/how-i-made-the-lucy-duffle-bag monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/cf0dd6a5-1ff1-4f1d-b183-666a12b2c4dd/LucyDuffle2.jpg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag I no longer quilt, I only make bags now! I’m mostly kidding, but also still completely obsessed with making bags from this fabric. Did you see my packing cube made with the same Selvedge Magic fabric? Once I made that packing cube, I knew I needed a duffle to go with it. After a bit of searching around, I chose the Lucy Duffle from Knot and Thread. If you’d like to make a bag like this, I’ve gathered all my thoughts on how I accounted for a one-way directional print, and how I altered the side pockets to be more to my liking. First off, this pattern is incredibly well written and the bag is soundly designed. If you’ve never sewn a bag before, I might recommend you work through Knot and Thread’s Patchwork Duffle before tackling this duffle. But If you have some experience with bag making and zippers, you could confidently work your way through this pattern. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9dc39992-ad03-4a01-a58b-0ee70c7b359f/LucyDuffle1.jpg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag Second, I can’t give you fabric requirements for this project. With all the alterations I made, I successfully used the 1¼ yards of lining. But I had multiple yards of Selvedge Magic and ByAnnie’s Soft and Stable. So I wasn’t worried about running out of fabric when I made my changes. Plus, this is more of a “here’s how I logic-ed my way through this” and less of a tutorial to make exactly what I made. Third, this isn’t my pattern, so I can’t give you measurements. That does make it difficult to share exactly what I did, but I’ll walk you through all the considerations I had to make along the way. You can apply these lessons to your project using a one-way directional print. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ac2e7470-a583-4575-9af0-e6e153b4467f/LucyDuffleSelvedgeMagic.jpg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/01755da3-1504-47fe-9811-4f2f13bd6495/LucyDuffleWithRuler.jpg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag If I had cut the units from Selvedge Magic height x length, the words would run up the height (like a title on a book spine) instead of across the length (like words on a page). For example, if a unit is listed as 10" x 7" (10 inches tall and 7 inches wide), I cut it 7" x 10". This ensured that the words would run along the 7" inch wide dimension. Refer to the image with the rule to help picture these dimensions and what the resulting unit would look like if cut from the fabric. Another way to think about this is that all pieces need to be turned 90 degrees before cutting them. I want to be consistent in my language here, so I’m sticking with the “switch the height and length dimensions” approach. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1755452605096-9DYSV9YEU57YHU10NT9Z/LucyDuffleBottomSeam.jpeg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1755452605152-1UMBW1615DV33258JF4X/LucyDuffleGussetSeam.jpeg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1755452613255-SB6KH2M8RPVP3GFZ8ANZ/LucyDuffleSideZipperSeam.jpeg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2da489eb-c8a2-4c60-8657-c6515c34acdc/LucyDuffleBagBody.jpg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag 5) Next in this example, I pieced the two 11" squares so that the print runs away from the center seam. Another way to describe this is if you held the resulting unit like a long scroll of parchment, it would be legible at the top and the text would be upside down once you reached the center seam. Take a look at this picture of me ironing the bag body unit. You can read the words at the top of the photo, but the words at the bottom of the photo are upside down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3c2b446f-c191-4a59-a44e-fd4b79c2e43c/LucyDuffleSideZipperShot.jpg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag If the pattern says to cut: Four side zipper strips: 2" x 10" Two side gusset strips: 4" x 11" I needed these units instead: Two side zipper strips: 4" x 10" Two side gusset strips: 4" x 11" https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1755453307702-CVDWJZPK2BZBNUH1O010/LucyDuffleEndPocketAssembly.jpeg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1755453318880-1P7XJK4AUWRHKKMCU8DK/LucyDuffleEndPocketCloseUp.jpeg Blog - How I Made the Lucy Duffle Bag https://mijahandmade.com/blog/how-to-diy-your-own-decorative-bag-webbing monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/572e2179-85a1-412c-ba92-ed181e9b4f19/L1000157.JPG Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing I have gone deep into the world of bag making. I’m constantly thinking about zippers, binding finishes, construction methods…and webbing! If you don’t know what webbing is, it’s the material bag patterns often direct you to use to make bag handles. You can get webbing in plain cotton for $3 to $4 per yard. Or you can get decorative webbing for $7 to $9 per yard. The project I’m working on required 5 yards of webbing, and while the idea of decorative webbing sings to my heart, I couldn’t justify spending another $30 or $40 on this project. So I decided to make my own! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/05d501d9-d02a-4320-a428-69e10f2e50cf/webbing7.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing To make this project, I picked a webbing color that would look good with my project, and shopped my stash for a fabric that coordinates with the rest of it. You could achieve the same look with decorative ribbon, but again, I wanted to keep costs low. I have plenty of fabric on hand but no ribbon on hand. If you want to replicate this look on your next bag project, keep reading and I’ll tell you how to turn 5 yards of plain webbing into decorative webbing using just one FQ. Plus - I’ve got a little bonus decoration for you using scraps of double sided, fusible interfacing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d6a27ef0-3ae8-4226-9182-a98de4ff463e/webbing1.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing - Step One I wanted my decorative strip to be half the width of my webbing, or ¾". If you are using a different width of webbing or want a different size fabric strip, your measurements will vary. Cut 9 strips: 1½" X WOF of your FQ https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1e1ca6cc-14d3-4acf-95f2-3708fc82b119/webbing2.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing - Step Two Sew the short ends together to make one length of fabric. Press seams to your preference https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a8dd4638-2cbf-45c3-ac3b-c806a60737a6/webbing3.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing - Step Three With the right sides out, fold the strip in half lengthwise and press to mark the center. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/12b784cb-0ff5-473f-8271-68540ff81167/webbing4.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing - Step Four Open the folded length, and bring the raw edges to meet at the center line. Press. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/834fa39b-f12f-4650-b5bf-af5ae93c0ae3/webbing5.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing - Step Five Optional: Draw a line ¼" in from the long edge of the webbing. I tried this at first but found it to be unnecessary. Align a folded edge of the fabric strip with the drawn line OR center the fabric strip on the webbing by eyeballing it. The raw edge side should be against the webbing. Secure the fabric strip to the webbing with a small amount of glue OR secure the fabric strip to the webbing with clips every several inches. I like to use glue at my ironing station so I can heat set it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1423246e-92e1-4d10-b623-4d4ecf860d9c/webbing6.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing - Step Six At your machine, sew down the length of the fabric strip on both sides. I sewed down the very edge of the fabric so I wouldn’t have a lip of fabric popping up. To do this, I moved my needle to the left most position. If you want to get very fancy, you could use a decorative stitch to secure the fabric strip. I suggest using bobbin thread to match your webbing. I only realized this after I turned my project over and was disappointed to see the white thread showing through the bottom. Trim off any excess fabric, and your webbing is ready to be trimmed to any length you need for your project! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/303a8826-7d9e-4f09-8c4c-0cd3f30f8798/webbing8.jpeg Blog - How To DIY Your Own Decorative Webbing - Bonus Tip I’m using Ruby Star Society’s Selvedge Magic for this body of this bag project, and the fabric is full of adorable icons from various RSS fabric lines. I added double sided fusible interfacing to some of these scraps, cut them down to roughly ¾" x ¾" (to match the width of my fabric strip), and attached them to the lengths that will become strap attachments. This was also a cute spot to add my label. This was a fun way to add a personal touch to my personalized decorative webbing! https://mijahandmade.com/blog/pack-it-in-20-pattern-review-and-tips monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2d669cf6-1a40-4fe5-af72-a63fece7cb27/Pack+It+In+Pattern+Review+Mija+Handmade Blog - Pack It In 2.0 Pattern Review and Tips For a while now, I’ve had an idea for a duffle bag pattern that I want to write. The biggest problem? I haven’t made too many bags or followed any bag patterns. I’ve stumbled my way through a few bags that I’ve made from scratch (see this selvedge fringe bag that I absolutely love) but that experience doesn’t lend itself well to drafting a writing a high quality pattern. I decided to fix this by getting my hands on a few bag patterns and digging in deep, starting with ByAnnie’s Pack It In 2.0 bag. And the first thing I learned? I’m terrible at following patterns! But that’s a personal trait that I will have to work on. Overall, I had so much fun making this packing cube - I believe myself to be slightly addicted to bag making now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0df02cc7-3cdc-432e-8dd1-33cce959406f/Pack+It+In+Pattern+Review+Mija+Handmade Blog - Pack It In 2.0 Pattern Review and Tips ByAnnie patterns are really well written, and the add on videos can be very helpful. If you need a summer project or are like me and want to improve your bag making skills, keep reading for my tips and insights into the pattern, and a list of the materials I used. I outline my thoughts on each step of the pattern and share some things I did to make my life easier (and some things I did to make my life harder). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3014f9f0-cd4f-49a1-b6fe-5028a8170193/Pack+It+In+Pattern+Review+Mija+Handmade Blog - Pack It In 2.0 Pattern Review and Tips - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ea7697b1-a034-49a6-bc0d-6d4188a1628f/Pack+It+In+Pattern+Review+Mija+Handmade Blog - Pack It In 2.0 Pattern Review and Tips - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/344c8a6b-9b28-46dc-9176-34819bcc25f5/Pack+It+In+Pattern+Review+Mija+Handmade Blog - Pack It In 2.0 Pattern Review and Tips - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5554c2bc-73c8-4846-b601-fb267dd193e3/Pack+It+In+Pattern+Review+Mija+Handmade Blog - Pack It In 2.0 Pattern Review and Tips - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/613e14b5-c02a-43e7-8943-3a5525cfa0d2/Pack+It+In+Pattern+Review+Mija+Handmade Blog - Pack It In 2.0 Pattern Review and Tips - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/anatomy-of-common-quilt-blocks monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/434b18ad-85cf-4a55-97c3-4fbcf6a51e9f/Anatomy+of+a+Flying+Geese+Block+Mija+Handmade Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks Flying geese blocks can be made from half square triangles, but most quilters I know prefer to make them from one rectangle and two squares. This eliminates the center seam, which reduces bulk and saves fabric waste. The goose of the block is the middle triangle, and the side triangles are the sky. I know some people prefer to think of the sky triangles as the wings, but I prefer to picture the block as we see geese fly overhead. The goose belly is the center triangle and they are framed by an expansive, open sky! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/522c0205-46fa-40e3-aa3f-6b1779054471/Sharrow+Quilt+Mija+Handmade Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks The Sharrow quilt was the very first pattern I wrote. I wanted to design something bold and geometric. The final design was inspired by sharrow road signs, which indicate that the road is to be shared by cars and bikes alike. I also wanted something that only uses three fabrics, so I wouldn’t have to make to many fabric decisions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/86df3064-d2a7-48f8-bca5-91b71d9e9b63/Anatomy+of+a+Log+Cabin+Block+Mija+Handmade Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks A log cabin quilt block is sewn by sewing strips of fabric around a center square. The center square is traditionally red, to represent the hearth of a home. The strips of fabric sewn around the hearth represent the logs, mirroring the interlocking construction of a log cabin. Traditionally, the log cabin block uses three colors: red for the center, light fabrics on one side, and dark fabrics for the other. I’ve read that the light and dark fabrics represent the sides of the house in light and in shadow during a sun rise or set. You can sew in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, it doesn’t matter. This illustration shows a counterclockwise sewing order. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7d86c55a-8253-4f20-9c9d-b4fe509ec9a2/Constellation+Cabin.JPG Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks When I designed the Constellation Cabin quilt I wanted to incorporate a vision of a night sky and solitary log cabin in the woods. The resulting quilt combines a constellation of sawtooth stars across a traditional log cabin block! I ended up using bright pinks and yellows instead of nighttime colors, but I just love the playful, cheerful result. Plus, I made the block extra big (14" x 14") and jelly roll friendly so that it stitches up in no time. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/48680047-1289-42ea-a0ff-70a25f7b184f/Anatomy+of+a+Courthouse+Step+Block+Mija+Handmade Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks The courthouse steps block represents another traditional building. This block uses five, four or three colors. I think of the center block as the dome of a municipal building, with the steps wrapping around the east, west, north and south sides of the building. The construction varies slightly from the log cabin. Instead of sewing around the center block, the courthouse steps are sewn to the east and west sides, then the north and south sides of the block. This constructions reflects the grand steps that often lead to courthouse doors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/40157cdf-a98c-4de3-8ab5-9f49d3ee1632/Alma+four+blocks.jpeg Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks The Alma quilt block is a foundation paper pieced block that lives somewhere between a courthouse steps block and a pineapple block. It keeps the traditional assembly method of sewing to the east, west, north and south sides, but turns the center unit into more of a background fabric. The real magic of the block comes when you make multiple blocks and stitch them together! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b5df8061-4ac3-4a9f-9cff-a4a65ea9d089/Anatomy+of+a+Quarter+Circle+Block+Mija+Handmade Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks The quarter circle block is made of two units: the concave unit and the convex unit. If you have trouble remembering which is which, just remember that the concave unit looks like a cave ceiling. Very often, I hear quilters refer to this block as a drunkard’s path block. I tend of think of drunkard’s path blocks as the bottom illustration. In this block, the convex unit does not reach to the edges of the block, leaving background fabric at the sides. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7d76515e-a376-45c2-bc34-510fddd8fa62/Grandma+Core+Quilt+Mija+Handmade Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks The Grandma Core quilt combines my love for quarter circle blocks and checkerboard patterns. By extending the checkerboard across the convex and concave units, you get these 70’s inspired flowers that puzzle piece together across the quilt top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c7a92823-7200-4236-a449-9f0817f34fd9/Anatomy+of+an+Orange+Peel+Block+Mija+Handmade Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks The orange peel block is a natural evolution of the quarter circle block. I feel like we’re really mixing up our fruits here. A block named after a citrus fruit, but the center unit is a melon, and is named after a berry fruit! Whatever it’s called, this block is absolutely scrumptious. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1717161900901-73OORTWK3ROSDFZNK60T/Folk+Hearts+Quilt+Pattern Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks I love the look of an orange peel block, and in typical Erin-fashion, couldn’t help putting a modern spin on it. In the Folks Hearts quilt, I introduce a new orange peel technique that adds incredible visual interest. Throw in some delicate sashing and scrappy cornerstones, and each block really has a chance to shine across this quilt top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7ed8b1be-d25e-4e85-917e-3234a71608b0/Mija+Handmade+Double+Wedding+Ring+Anatomy.png Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks The matriarch of traditional quilts, the double wedding ring, has many different and distinct components. Each individually cut piece has its own name, and as each unit is sewn together, the units are renamed. For example, once wedges are sewn together, they form an arc. When an arc and a melon are sewn, they form a half melon arc, etc. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1672690523292-ZWTUO47HHXJI469R5MF8/circus+ring-8.png Blog - Anatomy of Common Quilt Blocks Traditionally, an arc is made of an even number of wedges, however when I designed the Circus Ring quilt, I wanted to update this traditional design with an odd number of wedges. The Circus Ring quilt is a perfect practice pattern for quilters who have a double wedding ring on their bucket list of quilts. You’ll get all the practice of a double wedding ring, without the commitment of a full quilt. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/my-top-five-foundation-paper-piecing-tips monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ccb11a1b-4ec4-4499-91a4-a51fe5b76422/Top+5+Tips+for+FPP+-+Mija+Handmade Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips Foundation paper piecing isn’t my favorite piecing method, but when it works, it really works. The results are undeniably breathtaking. Not only does the method lend itself to some incredible designs (have you seen the patterns that Veruschka at Pride and Joy Quilting creates?) but the level of accuracy you can achieve makes my brain purr. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/4e4582c5-8a06-4331-ac85-3a1fcf56733b/Alma+FPP+Quilt+Block+by+Mija+Handmade Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips When I designed the Alma quilt block, I went back and forth over the decision to make it an FPP pattern. This is definitely a pattern that could be made without FPP. The block is inspired by the traditional courthouse steps block, so I could have written the pattern to be assembled that way. But I really wanted to emphasize accurate piecing, and when you want accurate piecing, you just can’t beat FPP. And rather than offer yet another tutorial on how to foundation paper piece, I thought I’d offer you my top five tips for foundation paper piecing instead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/40157cdf-a98c-4de3-8ab5-9f49d3ee1632/Mija+Handmade+-+FPP+tips+-+use+solids%21 Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips - One: Use Solids I’d call myself an intermediate FPP quilter. I don’t need to relearn the method every time I start a new project and I can interpret most FPP templates pretty easily. That said, I rarely finish an FPP project without seam ripping at least a handful of seams. You know when I have to seam rip the most? When I use prints. It’s so easy to get turned around and forget with side is right and which sides are supposed to face each other. If you are new to FPP or are still gaining confidence in the method, I highly recommend sticking to solids. Then there is no right or wrong side to the fabric and you have one less thing to think about. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ebe10d4c-b830-4542-a635-5f8ba421189e/Mija+Handmade+-+FPP+tips+-+precut+your+fabric%21 Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips - Two: Find A Pattern With Instructions To Precut Fabric FPP patterns can be fantastic for using irregularly sized scraps. It’s not really a requirement to precut fabric, but while you’re learning the method or if you’re trying to make multiple of the same FPP block, having precut fabric units can be so helpful. First, you can be sure that the piece will fit the template area. Second, it helps speed up the process when working on multiple, identical blocks. It just so happens that the Alma quilt block offers instructions to precut your fabric if you want . https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3a3b8984-9f66-4ea0-afa4-18915219c9c1/Mija+Handmade+-+FPP+tips+-+prefold+the+template%21 Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips - Three: Prefold The Template There are a couple reasons I like to prefold my template. First, I can use the crease lines to help gauge if my fabric unit is aligned correctly. Second, I think it saves time during construction. There is a lot of switching between tools during FPP; if everything is prefolded, that’s one “switch” I can remove from each step. Third, it helps make the paper template more pliable when I’m maneuvering it under the machine. It’s not so stiff and it fights me a less than an unfolded paper would. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e9408e21-4f82-44da-aa24-0d28fab31982/Mija+Handmade+-+FPP+tips+-+draw+on+the+back+of+the+template%21 Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips - Four: Draw On The Back Of The Template Many FPP tutorials will tell you to hold the template up to a window or a light box to determine if your fabric unit is placed correctly. Well, I sew in a basement with dark windows and I don’t want to invest in a light box. My solution? I draw on the back of the template to help me visualize which area I’m sewing next. This is possible because I’ve prefolded the template and can easily trace the lines and transfer the information from the front. In this photo, I’m using the visual information from my drawing and feeling the fabric on the underside to determine that the fabric is aligned correctly and will sufficiently cover the area when all sewn up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1749667453577-WWSI5VS1OZLR8OUEN1LU/Alma+FPP+two+at+a+time.JPG Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1749667453466-VOPZXBPDRJARLII6QT76/Alam+FPP+Two+at+a+time2.JPG Blog - My Top Five FPP Tips https://mijahandmade.com/blog/hand-quilting-needles-sashiko-vs-sharps monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/68481111-ac41-4d98-a7f1-6c81aebae47f/Mija+Handmade+Quilt+Top+Featured+in+a+Blog+Post+about+Hand+Quilting Blog - Hand Quilting Needles: Sashiko Vs. Sharps I’ve recently discovered that I love hand quilting. Luckily, I just finished a quilt top that is calling to be hand quilted (no pattern for this…yet ). This is my first 100% scrappy quilt and every fabric came from my stash. I didn’t expect to love the saddle, black, yellow and blue combo so much, but I’m completely in love with the final product. And the patchwork is just calling me to hand quilt it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1425f57c-5ff5-478d-8e71-6e68ab8c2e24/Mija+Handmade+Detail+of+A+Sawtooth+Star+and+Hand+Quilting Blog - Hand Quilting Needles: Sashiko Vs. Sharps - One Small Tool Made the Biggest Difference I’m going to echo each star, then echo each of the outer rings. This isn’t the first quilt I’ve hand quilted, but it is the first quilt I’ve quilted pain free. And it’s the first that I’ve been really impressed by my consistent stitch length. If you are working on your stitch length or often experience pain while hand quilting, I have one big switch you might want to make in your quilting practice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a21d85a2-3062-4372-a42d-3d4bde82ccd5/Mija+Handmade+Sashiko+Vs+Sharps Blog - Hand Quilting Needles: Sashiko Vs. Sharps - Sashiko Needles vs Quilting Sharps The internet and social media had me convinced that sashiko needles were the epitome of modern hand quilting. I’m here to disabuse you of that notion. I’m fully on board with quilting sharps. First: When I switched to the sharps, my thumb and wrist pain immediately disappeared. The smaller, more flexible needle means that I’m not fighting with the metal as much. The shorter needle length means that, while I can’t fit as many stitches on the needle, I’m manipulating less fabric. So there is less material offering resistance to my little joints. Second: My stitches are incredibly more consistent now. I’m very much a beginner hand quilter, so nothing I’m doing is perfect. But keep scrolling and let’s take a look at the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1748981384156-BC6KH5YZX2OSU2HQI4IT/Hand+quilting+Sashiko.jpeg Blog - Hand Quilting Needles: Sashiko Vs. Sharps https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1748982084288-QKTW5STA7Q12YUJHQ9R3/Hand%2Bquilting%2BSashiko%2Bdetail.jpg Blog - Hand Quilting Needles: Sashiko Vs. Sharps https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1748981976418-48HP4CFFTY0E33J6AKJP/Hand+quilting+Sharps.jpeg Blog - Hand Quilting Needles: Sashiko Vs. Sharps https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1748981996720-BVJNEWCO5UTG4MKCS43C/Hand+quilting+Sharps+detail.jpeg Blog - Hand Quilting Needles: Sashiko Vs. Sharps https://mijahandmade.com/blog/how-to-sew-a-quarter-circle-quilt-block monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b92a9c85-b7fd-4818-b5f8-90612840cec8/IMG_1849.jpg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Follow along with this tutorial with the Show and Tell Mini Quilt. Designed specifically for practicing quarter circle curves, you’ll master curves in no time with the Show and Tell mini quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f82fc400-ddf4-4d1a-a4b4-6c04ce65c2dc/1+Convex+and+concave+units.jpg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Anatomy of a quarter circle There are two units for these curves. The green fabric is the convex unit and the white fabric is the concave unit. The best way to keep these straight is to remember that the CONCAVE unit looks like a CAVE ceiling. You generally want to cut the units so the straight grain of the fabric is running along the straight edges of the templates. This way, the bias is only exposed on the curved edges. We want this! Having the bias on the curved sides will help us ease fabric as we sew the seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/858d5b57-e7e9-41b0-a47a-1f0307dafe0c/RST.png Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Right Sides Together The directions for each template you come across will differ. Some will have you fold the units half and match at center. I like to fold the concave unit wrong sides together, and the convex unit right sides together. This ensures the creases can nest in each other, kind of like a big spoon/little spoon situation. Other templates will have registration marks you can transfer to the units. My template has registration marks, so I transferred the convex marks to the right side of the unit, and the concave marks to the wrong side of the unit. I like to sew my curves with the concave unit on top. So I start by flipping the concave unit over and matching the curves at the middle. I make sure that the concave piece is nicely aligned like the photo on the left. The wonky alignment on the right makes my skin itch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/410eb7e7-9d3a-4cb0-ad81-ac2abe652f39/Pins.png Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Pinning This is perhaps the most controversial part of sewing curves. To pin or not to pin. Glue or not to glue. Or just freestyle it and don’t do any sort of matching. I pin. When I first starting learning to sew curves, I used an abundance of pins. Now I use fewer and tend to pin only at both ends and center. The advantage of using more pins is that you get all the fussing with the fabric done before you even get to the machine. The disadvantage is that you spend more time pinning. The advantage of fewer pins is that you spend less time pinning. The disadvantage is that you spend more time fiddling with the fabric under the needle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a19dda29-2871-4ef6-abb5-ed7b0f54beaa/pinned+unit.JPG Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Small quarter circle units I’ve been known to sew curves that finish at 2" square. For any quarter circles that finish smaller than 4" x 4", I use more pins. The smaller the unit, the more pins I use. I also clip the seam allowance to help the concave unit lie flat during assembly. These snips should be no longer than ⅛" and can be as close as ¼". I typically reserve snipping the seam allowance for tiny quarter circles, but this method can be very helpful for beginner quilters practicing with larger quarter circles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5653a898-d0f1-416d-b27d-baa37a703707/6+Pinned+corners.jpeg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - My favorite tip I don’t like to align the edges of my units exactly. After lots.and.lots.and.lots of experimenting, I like my curve edges to look like this picture. The corner edge of the concave piece extends just slightly outwards and the fabrics meet exactly at the ¼" mark. I make both ends of the concave unit look like this. This is a skill I’ve developed with lots of practice, and now I can eyeball when this alignment looks right to me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/91617aa1-8fd6-49b0-86cd-14b2edd6b205/7+at+the+machine.jpg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - At the machine As you sew around the curve, your goal is to keep the fabric under the needle flat, and keep all the fabric fullness to the left of the needle. These next few pictures show how the fullness will pucker and how I sometimes manipulate the fabric to make the edges flat. You get to choose if you sew over your pins or not. If you’re a beginner, sew slowly. We’re learning a new skill and there is no need to rush it. You can even shorten your stitch length - this gives you lots of opportunity to readjust your fabric and avoid puckers. Take a few stitches and readjust. Sew a bit more, then readjust. Sew and adjust. Sew and adjust. And on till you hit the end of the unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746805149265-H0IEQG4253D21MQDO0VN/8+Fullness+1.jpeg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746805148960-QVDDM99FN67J2T1B4IC3/8+Fullness+2.jpeg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746805157171-D8TJT5UTCZQ7EVRFHQDU/8+Fullness+3.jpeg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746805157559-D0PKLNJESGJFJFK1C5OR/8+Fullness+4.jpeg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/859737ae-a47a-4e67-b11b-008e55c5856a/9+Sewn+Corner+closeup.jpeg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Setting the seam If you’ve tried my favorite tip, the sewn curve will look like this. The edges are slightly wonky but the seam intersects both at the ¼" mark. Now it’s time to set the seam. This means stamping the seam with a hot iron. This step helps the thread sink into the fabric. If you’re a stickler for flat seams, you don’t want to skip this step. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2bff8aec-a532-4f73-924d-9cb251f01eaa/seams.png Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Pressing Every pattern will have different pressing directions. Which way I like to press depends what my end purpose. I love nesting seams, so I’ll alternate pressing inwards and outwards if it means the seams will nest. If there is no opportunity for nesting seams, I’ll press open. I do recommend snipping the seam allowance of at least the convex unit if you decide to press open. I’ve also been known to make liberal use of water and steam. If the block has turned out lumpy, with lots of fullness, I excessively spray the block and manipulate the fabric to get it to lay as flat as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/dde090fa-a728-4953-b88b-31dcea55e15a/11+Trimming.jpeg Blog - How to Sew a Quarter Circle Quilt Block - Trimming Before trimming, I like to leave my blocks under a tailor’s clapper or a heavy book for at least 20 minutes, but overnight if I have the patience. This way, I know all the fibers are relaxed and won’t shift or shrink after trimming. The template I’ve used here only requires trimming from the concave unit. Whatever your template requires, it’s most likely that you’ll need to leave ¼" of seam allowance at the ends of the unit. Identify the appropriate ¼" mark on your ruler and align those marks with the curved seam. Before you jump into your first big project or pattern, try a test block or two using whatever templates come with the pattern. These can always be incorporated into the quilt backing or made into a wall hanging or pillow. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/choosing-fabrics-for-the-formal-gardens-block monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c9905ec6-17c5-4cbb-a43c-829d2eaa16c7/Formal%2BGardens.jpg Blog - Choosing Fabrics for the Formal Gardens Block - Meet the Formal Garden Quilt Block If you’ve been on the hunt for a new spin on the old classic, the log cabin quilt block, you must check out my Formals Gardens quilt block. This block pattern plays with the alternating, interlocking pieces of the log cabin, and keeps the dramatic color families that give log cabins their timeless look. To keep things fresh and grow our skills, the block pattern introduces quarter circle blocks to bring modern sparkle to the party. Below, I share my best advice on how to pick fabrics for the Formal Gardens block party. Plus! I’ve put together a worksheet that walks you through how to calculate how much fabric you need to turn the block into a full quilt! Keep scrolling to get the free fabric calculations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/66b54d1c-c7c7-46b0-b495-b87fd5b498c7/Formal+Garden+block+2.jpeg Blog - Choosing Fabrics for the Formal Gardens Block Make one just for practice (and turn it into a quilted packing cube) or dig into your stash to make several and turn this block pattern into your new heirloom, log cabin quilt. However many you choose to make, here’s my best advice on choosing fabrics for the Formal Gardens quilt block. In a typical log cabin block, you only need to think about two color families, or the colors that will go on opposite sides of the block. In the Formal Gardens quilt block, we need to think about: Color family 1 (fabrics A/B ) Color family 2 (fabrics C/D) the background fabric (fabric E) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f9253318-c0c1-41b9-a9e5-3eb5010c2875/Formal+Garden+block+4.jpeg Blog - Choosing Fabrics for the Formal Gardens Block Once you’ve decided on your color families, we can dig into the specific fabrics. I recommend that fabrics A and C are highly saturated or have a dark value, and fabrics B and D have low saturation or a light value. The contrast emphasizes the expanding squares in the patchwork. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/how-to-use-directional-prints-in-flying-geese monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746737780369-SOZKC2ROHOAVFQ8H2SWR/FGgooseandsky.jpeg Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c2b76665-598c-43ec-8a89-1426c26d4d73/FG-2.png Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3c3a1682-42de-4ae0-b5b2-e98f7748f1be/FG-3.png Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746736889917-HIIBOF829XLOXGZMS3VE/FG-4.png Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746736998972-L2UDJL7LT05UPSN64S5S/FG-4b.jpeg Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746736999073-2M6ETHRMA5T4S7QYUI56/FG-4c.jpeg Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/8be5aec4-6c82-4932-aa92-0eb0422a9d38/FG-twoway.jpeg Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f16c4268-aea7-4feb-bf03-d1b715db553b/FG-5.png Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d0bcb216-30de-4dc2-9b0b-a80144a663a7/FG-6.png Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5447c9d0-b5da-42b8-b5c8-9524de4b96cb/FG-7.png Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746737372613-D0BRSF5N8SZ7AOG2YCJW/FG-7b.jpeg Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1746737373041-9QDTMB3JJQ3103KGPO5I/FG-7c.jpeg Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e4d453cf-0d14-456a-8a1a-7b79535160d6/FG+one+way.jpeg Blog - How To Use Directional Prints in Flying Geese - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/fluttersome-strip-piecing monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2ec2b043-3415-49c3-8931-226b288afdf6/Strip+Piecing+Fluttersome+blocks.jpeg Blog - Fluttersome Strip Piecing After I spent time making the Fluttersome FPP blocks, I wanted to see if it was possible to replicate the double wedding ring look, but with strip piecing instead. I’m happy to report that it was a pretty successful effort! This spin on the Fluttersome block would be a great way to use up any leftover fabric you have from quilt bindings or jelly rolls! Just trim the WOF strips to 2" wide. If you like the look of this block, keep reading for a tutorial on how to turn the block pattern into a 48" x 60" quilt! I’m using a fun selection of blender prints and Color Wheel Solids from Connecting Threads. If you’d like to use these fabrics, I’ve got them listed here for you! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1743285869184-74YE6VS98JYQN69SVD54/Acrylic+Template3.jpeg Blog - Fluttersome Strip Piecing Accent Fabrics: Hatfield Garden Tiny Tulips Dusty Aqua Summer Jubilee Star Ditsy Lt Harbor Blue Luxembourg Square Swiss Netting Tea Green Luxembourg Square Sofia Dot Misty Green Vivienne Daisy Chain Soft Purple Faux Tweed Tonals Lilac Ice Solid Fabrics: Color Wheel Solids French Blue (91236) Color Wheel Solids Antique Pink (94162) Color Wheel Solids Coral Reef (94183) Color Wheel Solids Carnation (91197) If you’re going to make a solid background quilt top, I recommend picking one of the pink solids. I started with six, 2" x WOF strips of the accent fabrics listed above. I centered Template 3 on the strip pieced units and cut as many as I could from the WOF pieced unit. If you are using paper templates from the pattern, you can find the midpoint by folding Template 3 in half and marking the crease with a pen or pencil. If you are using the acrylic templates from Cut Once Quilts, the center is already marked for you! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c9bd519e-745e-4b94-a535-11d2bbb2e00a/Fluttersome+four+block.jpeg Blog - Fluttersome Strip Piecing I followed the pattern instructions for piecing the remaining templates. I found that I liked to press the seams open, except for any seam on the pieced Template 3 unit. I always pressed these seams to the side, away from the pieced unit. I’m stopping at a wall hanging size, but if you’d like to make a small throw size quilt that measures 48" x 60", or 4 blocks by 5 blocks, I’ve written a quick tutorial for you! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/970e1ce2-99e2-4caf-86d3-f806fa0a9704/Strip+Set+Fluttersome+Top.jpg Blog - Fluttersome Strip Piecing - Fluttersome quilt top fabric requirements (48" x 60") Outside ring, six accent fabrics: ⅓ yard each Inside ring, one accent fabric: 1 yard Background fabric: 3¼ yards Backing: 3 yards Binding: ½ yard https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2b7521db-e67e-4dc2-a6a6-ae7a1b5431f5/Cutting.jpeg Blog - Fluttersome Strip Piecing - Cutting Instructions Outside ring accent fabrics: From each fabric cut 5: 2" x WOF Inside ring accent fabric: 4: 8" x WOF From each strip, subcut 20 of Template 2. This yields 80 units. Background fabric: 16: 6⅞" x WOF strips. From each strip, subcut 10 of Template 4 and 5 of Template 1. This yields 160 of Template 4 and 80 of Template 1. Binding fabric: 6: 2½" x WOF https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1743285709940-TR7ET4GMYXIE48VRKP8N/Template3.jpeg Blog - Fluttersome Strip Piecing - Strip Pieced Template 3 Units Sew one WOF strip of each accent fabric to create a strip set 9½" x WOF. Make sure to sew the fabrics in the same order every time. Make 5 strip sets. Cut 80 of Template 3 from the strip sets. Choose one fabric to keep on the left side - orient the strip set with this fabric on the left side before you cut Template 3. If you change the orientation, the fabrics will appear out of order in the final block. Each strip set should yield about 18 Template 3 units, depending on how closely you cut each unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c14dd99e-7c45-4276-a4c4-8d1047bf119f/Assembly.jpeg Blog - Fluttersome Strip Piecing - Block Assembly Follow the pattern directions for sewing all the templates together into 6½" x 6½" sub blocks. Sew 4 sub blocks into the alternate layout orientation on page 8 of the pattern. Sew blocks into 5 rows of 4. Sew all rows together. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/book-review-quilts-in-modern-color monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a8d3fea6-1aa1-431e-b9b0-6bbf35b8753c/Quilts+in+Modern+Color+Cover.jpg Blog - Book Review: Quilts in Modern Color - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ef797f4f-8d4e-47f3-943b-876cc5073ff4/Michael+Miller+Fabrics%403x.png Blog - Book Review: Quilts in Modern Color - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a89542ad-0b28-4a23-8de8-5b30d098a775/Candy+with+Cadet%403x.png Blog - Book Review: Quilts in Modern Color - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/393a11de-4c7a-42c2-864b-69638fdd3e98/Michael+Miller+Analagous%403x.png Blog - Book Review: Quilts in Modern Color - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3a78d97d-27db-462d-a427-f47946bb200d/MM+Monochrome%403x.png Blog - Book Review: Quilts in Modern Color - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/fluttersome-fpp-and-fabric-choices monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/38c015eb-8bb6-43c4-8e87-abd5c44d141d/FPP+blog+1.png Blog - Fluttersome FPP and Fabric Choices In this version, the background fabric is a lighter value than Template 2 units. This helps the “background circle” maintain a strong circular shape. The FPP pieces are organized in an ombre pattern, which draws your eye around the quilt top in a sinuous manner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d15d1ce5-4a3c-4d41-aad6-f49924886d27/FPP+blog+2.png Blog - Fluttersome FPP and Fabric Choices In this version, the darkest fabrics are used in the center of the FPP template. This highlights the “corners” of the foreground circle and minimizes the visual movement around the quilt top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/fab22f74-a126-41d8-84c1-6891a8eb5eef/FPP+Blog+3.png Blog - Fluttersome FPP and Fabric Choices Here, the background fabric is darker than the Template 2 units. The FPP units also have a variety of dark and light values of warm and cool colors. This juxtaposition introduces a lot of movement, and the circles almost look as if they are leaning to the right. Squint your eyes and there is a strong diagonal energy in this quilt top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/6bf8682c-f471-427a-b846-0ba6724f5450/FPP+Blog+4.png Blog - Fluttersome FPP and Fabric Choices In this version, there is less directional energy and movement across the quilt top. The “background circle” maintains its shape because it contrasts nicely with the background fabric. And the foreground FPP circles are made with mostly medium value fabrics, but with a confetti-like sprinkling of color across the rings. Some of the lightest values are at the ends of the FPP Template, which visually glues each circle together. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/santas-got-a-brand-new-bag monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0e805166-3331-4e0b-b9e3-27392a793a93/SantaSack.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag - Imagine this… It’s Christmas morning and your little ones run to the Christmas tree to find, uh oh! Santa has left his sack of presents under the tree! Can you picture their joy and surprise to find such a special holiday keepsake? You can make these holiday memories happen with this Santa Sack tutorial! Follow the instructions below to make a 18" x 38" oversized, lined, drawstring bag with Santa themed patchwork on the front and back of the bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733597223307-Z1K59NX84UAD3G1Q36T5/SantaSack20.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733597224303-UY3NOANFZT9UYU3L679B/SantaSack19.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/34849a91-3c80-41d4-bcf4-49f9c2f7efb1/Santa+Sack.png Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag - Santa Patchwork Draw a diagonal line on all W2 squares. Stitch and flip one W2 square to each corner of every B3 square. Makes 4. Assemble half the red, black, gold, white fabric units and patchwork squares according to the diagram. Press to your preference. Make two Santa patchwork blocks. Blocks measure 18½" x 38½". Quilting Quilt each Santa patchwork block to a matching size or oversized piece of batting. Quilt with a loose design to avoid shrinking the patchwork. I quilted a 3" grid on both sides. If using an oversized piece of batting, trim excess after quilting. Quilt one 12½" x 12½" lining rectangle to a matching size piece of batting. Trim the quilted square using Template 1. This will be the exterior bottom of the bag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595832636-522C7ZHCX0E8C4NBZ45J/SantaSack1.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595837955-4VAZ6QZU37Y13OYZNNS6/SantaSack2.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595837908-PMAYH80TMOSCPZLMU3F2/SantaSack3.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595842311-EUTWR5X1SNRWEXJNC5GH/SantaSack4.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595929831-KLFKNSJVOOLOQ4ZNN82D/SantaSack5.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595930954-MM8KPX4FJHU9RZY92YVN/SantaSack6.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595933776-508DO2APOGH2UE9URO0I/SantaSack7.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733595933650-D80MKXPHGV44DQVMMPX7/SantaSack8.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596205733-205D2WT35UAZIP8QKPTC/SantaSack9.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596205576-ZSBFLNU2FFY155PWXCFD/SantaSack10.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596210368-2R94W1171LFMMO685SWP/SantaSack12.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596209574-5D7DNDC40KO9QT7HK4ZX/SantaSack11.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596325796-HYM3ZXNDRPPSYKQWPDJO/SantaSack13.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596326513-1W42ZLM7AKFVQZVH9FN1/SantaSack14.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2e959d92-5a65-46ab-b0f0-b9dcc8e46854/SantaSack15.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag - Drawstring Cord Press both red fabric 2" x WOF strips in half, wrong sides together. Open up the strip, fold the raw edges towards the middle and press. Fold in half along the original fold and press. Fold each short end in on itself twice to hide the raw ends. Stitch down the length of strip, securing the double folded ends and folded length. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596511911-N92GLFN0G2RZLK4YYCUU/SantaSack16.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596510676-TPQWI7AO2DGPZSKLYEJM/SantaSack17.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1733596514027-ANTAIMSLDT33EMJXGBRT/SantaSack18.jpg Blog - Santa’s Got a Brand New Bag https://mijahandmade.com/blog/how-to-identify-two-way-directional-fabrics monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/14dc3c5a-dda4-417d-8d0a-79da9506f8e4/Wall+Hanging+Crop.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics In case you haven’t heard, the Grandma Core quilt is: 1) amazing, 2) perfect for showing off two-way directional prints! The quilt pattern accounts for two-way directional prints to make sure that the prints all run the same way in each flower. Let’s spend some time looking at different fabrics to determine what prints would be best to use in the Grandma Core quilt. First of all, what is a two-way directional fabric? It is a print that makes sense in two directions, like a stripe. Consider a stripe that runs left to right. If you rotate the print 180 degrees, the print is identical to the original orientation. This is different than a one-way or non-directional print. A one-way directional print only makes sense in one direction; if you turn it upside down, figures and motifs are upside down. A non-directional or four-way print makes sense no matter which way you turn it. Keep reading to see some examples of fabric I would use in the Grandma Core quilt, and how to identify tricky examples of one way directional prints. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/26e4bd7d-7be3-48c2-8e41-a3c2da6cf5ce/GC+Blog+2.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out This fabric is a classic example of a stripe print. The fabric is Timeless Ticking Forest by Sharon Holland for Art Gallery Fabrics. The first image is the fabric oriented correctly. The second image is the same image rotated 180 degrees. You can see the images and prints are identical, and it’s a yes to using this fabric in the Grandma Core quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/6c0f2edf-6713-4576-8013-5f47c01439d0/GC+Blog+3.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out This fabric is Elixir Metallic Smoke, part of Melody Miller’s Elixir collection for Ruby Star Society. The print isn’t a stripe, but the motifs run up and down. The image on the right has been turn 180 degrees, and the motifs still make sense! That means we can use it in the quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ee6d7b99-2b43-49b8-9176-70f8354e09e2/GC+Blog+5.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out This print, Regalia in Lipstick by Melody Miller, is another print that isn’t obviously a stripe, but is a two-way directional fabric. Rotating the fabric 180 degrees shows that all the elements work perfectly in either direction. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/33317a0b-01f8-4bcf-88be-d4731148307b/GC+Blog+1.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out This floral print from Ruby Star Society’s Favorite Flower collection is the trickiest of the examples. This fabric is a stripe print where the stripes are made up of various flowers. When turned 180 degrees, the yellow flower in the center looks like it’s upside down. It’s not out of the running yet though. Notice that other flowers are now right side up. Because the flowers are oriented both up and down, the print makes sense in both directions, and it’s perfect for the Grandma Core quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5409317b-1d6c-44f7-98e1-23ae7a1ebe8a/GC+Blog+4.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out Not all stripes are created equal. This fabric, Bud in Cayenne by Alexia Marcelle Abegg for Ruby Star Society, can be called a stripe. But the rotated image reveals that it’s actually a one-way directional stripe, because the print is only repeatable in one orientation. In full transparency, I did use this print in my Grandma Core quilt, but the pattern directions don’t cover how to use a print like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/141f5c7d-1643-4f77-b16f-b959697aa1fd/GC+Blog+6.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out Hibiscus in Balmy by Melody Miller is another tricky example. When rotated 180 degrees, the majority of print looks identical - the center orange flowers and surrounding elements look pretty good! The only thing that gives it away is the orientation of the curved elements are wrong. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/4f92fe58-1ca4-462d-8568-31edb06fc283/CG+Blog+7.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out While it may be tempting to immediately call this a stripe and use it in the Grandma Core quilt, let’s take a closer look. This stripe print is Love Lane by Art Gallery Fabrics. While it is a stripe, it is another example of a one-way stripe. Because the hearts are all oriented in the same direction, the print isn’t identical when turned upside down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/593457ad-4c05-489b-a672-a8a5f3b6b200/GC+Blog+8.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out This tossed print is Love All Around by Art Gallery Fabrics. A tossed print is when the motifs seemed to be tossed or scattered across the fabric in a balanced way. Tossed prints are often four-way directional prints, but this one is not. Let’s figure out why. Look closely at the larger motifs. While the small elements still run every-which-way, the larger motifs are all upside down in the left image, making this an imperfect option for the Grandma Core quilt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/807428c3-1913-43fc-b291-b9fdf70915bd/GC+Blog+9.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out This Summer Butterfly print by Gingiber for Moda Fabrics is another example of a tossed print that is not identical when upside down. The varied angles of the plants and wings almost makes you think it would rotate well, but everything is still only oriented in one direction. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/37a4a79d-74ec-45c4-9900-9304a1905757/GC+Blog+10.png Blog - How To Identify Two-Way Directional Fabrics - Make it stand out As a final example, this Rural Idyllic print from Sharon Holland is a landscape print. This type of print would include many Toile de Jouy fabrics. These complex scenes are often printed as one-way directional prints and would not work well in the Grandma Core quilt. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/sparks-fly-ombr-fq-hack monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d052f4e6-4b14-40ab-b893-96cb29a90e3a/Sparks+FLy+Hack.jpg Blog - Sparks Fly Ombré FQ Hack - Ombré will never go out of style, right? Not when it looks this good! This 8-color ombré isn’t an official color way in the Sparks Fly pattern, but it takes just a few minutes to figure out how to hack the small throw size! Keep scrolling to find the fabric requirements and cutting instructions for this ombré FQ version. And don’t forget to pick up your copy of the pattern if you don’t have it yet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2f81d425-6f09-4b58-9b01-5825a89ff37e/FQ+Hack+2.png Blog - Sparks Fly Ombré FQ Hack To start, we’re going to follow the instructions for the mid-mod shapes version. Reference the pattern for the star accent fabric requirements. On page 3 of the pattern, you’ll find the FQ cutting guide for the mid-mod shapes version, baby size. This shows how to cut all the pieces for the center two diagonal rows (the fabrics that have four mid-mod shapes). For the other diagonal rows, you can use the cutting guide as a general guide to cut fewer pieces than illustrated. Cut the number of B1, B2, and B3 pieces listed here. You will have some leftover fabric, but that’s the nature of a pattern hack. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d5b20bd7-643b-4387-b936-25ec3b70e09f/FQ+Hack3.jpeg Blog - Sparks Fly Ombré FQ Hack The tables that list the number of units will not accurately reflect the fabric combinations you need. At each step, just make sure to use half of the units from each FQ fabric. For example, consider the fabrics that are used in only one mid-mod shape. You have two B1 units and four B2 units. Use one B1 in part 1. Use one B1 unit in part 2. Use two B2 units in part 3. Use two B2 units in part 4. For fabrics with 1 mid-mod shape block, you’ll need 2 each of units 1 through 4. For fabrics with 2 mid-mod shape blocks, you’ll need 4 each of units 1 through 4. For fabrics with 3 mid-mod shape blocks, you’ll need 6 each of units 1 through 4. For fabrics with 4 mid-mod shape blocks, you’ll need 8 each of units 1 through 4. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c8bfa21d-2dda-4a58-b475-82410c4026a1/Favorite+Flowers_1.png Blog - Sparks Fly Ombré FQ Hack Show off your favorite fabrics, like the Favorite Flowers collection from Ruby Star Society. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e46a622a-96f8-4576-8155-4f1211ee9b9d/RSS+Ombre.png Blog - Sparks Fly Ombré FQ Hack The sparks really take on a spooky edge when paired with these Good Spirits fabrics from Ruby Star Society. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/6dc7c023-155f-4af9-abff-7e72fa25baca/Sparks+Fly+Hack2.jpg Blog - Sparks Fly Ombré FQ Hack And for a little bit of quilting inspiration, I used the pantograph Orange Dream, which balances the sparks perfectly! https://mijahandmade.com/blog/how-to-sew-an-inset-circle monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b625a29b-3942-4ac5-8b2a-1b83252b9152/InsetCircle11.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Sewing inset circles can be a breeze if we take our time and move through each step intentionally. To make sure you’re confident with this full circle sewing method, I’m going to share my favorite tips that make circles stress and wrinkle free! I’ve found that the more I rush through these steps, the less I like the resulting block. So, take a deep breath, turn on your iron and let’s get stitching! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/19e8d73c-a4af-4fb6-9261-238969f5d791/InsetCircle1.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle For this example, I’m using the Pump Queen block, but the steps outlined here are relevant to any pattern with an inset circle. To start, I like to use weights to hold down my curve templates. I bought these washers from my local home improvement store. I also like to cut out circles on my rotating cutting mat. This helps ensure that I don’t have to contort into weird positions to cut all the way around the circle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/55a1ff92-e53b-48c0-ad23-eadc17143faf/InsetCircle2.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Many of my patterns, including the Pump Queen block, instructs you to fold the units into eighths and crease the folds to mark them. To do this, I fold the unit in half several times; once horizontally, once vertically, and once on each diagonal, and lightly drag my nail along the fold. Once your pieces are cut and the creases are marked, lay the exterior circle unit on top of circle unit. Both units should be right side up. I like to take a minute to visually check how well my crease marks are aligned. Specific to the Pump Queen block: if you want a wonky look, rotate the inner circle one crease mark left or right. This will result in a Pump Queen face that leans slightly to one side. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/98f3639c-9c60-4304-87e7-c5fdbc3bcf6a/InsetCircle3.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Flip the top of the exterior circle unit over so the edge of the cut out circle meets the edge of the circle unit. Keep the crease marks matched and pin at the crease. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3fd386c6-dce4-4cdb-bc4a-c4ffdb7a3033/InsetCircle4.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Repeat with the bottom side. Keep the crease marks aligned and pin in place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e3a1547f-0875-43f6-8c11-06209cb4b766/InsetCircle5.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Repeat with the right side of the unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/251802e8-f70f-47f4-8ad4-0460f8ee1063/InsetCircle6.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Repeat with the right side. If you’ve never sewn an inset circle before, the unit does feel strange at this point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/59897133-4ac4-4042-8569-66c262470c21/InsetCircle7.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle From here, you can add as many pins as you like. I’m comfortable adding four more pins at the diagonal crease marks. When I first started sewing curves, I would use 16 total pins, eight more than are pictured here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/43d99be6-2f9d-495c-ada0-f47b5341c17e/InsetCircle8.JPG Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Don’t head to your machine just yet. To ensure that the exterior fabric is evenly distributed around the circle, I like to test how much slack there is in the fabric on each side of the pins. In this picture, there is slightly more slack on the left side of the pin than on the right. There are two ways I can tell this. 1) I can feel that tension with my fingers. 2) The fabric on the right side of the pin is flipped up slightly. To correct this, I remove the red pin and adjust the fabric to evenly distribute the fabric between the pins at 12 and 9 o’clock on the block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5c1d6b58-4b22-497a-843f-7fa8890f411b/InsetCircle9.JPG Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle In this picture, I’ve adjusted the fabric. You can see that the fabric on both sides of the pin wants to lay flat - that’s what I look for as I continue my visual and physical inspection of the block. I repeat this process around all eight pins before I move to my sewing machine. On smaller circles, you may want to make small snips in the exterior circle unit to encourage the edge to lay flat (keep the snips inside the seam allowance - the spacing of the snips varies depending on the diameter of the circle). The Pump Queen circle is big enough that I don’t think it’s necessary, but you can absolutely add those snips if you’re new to sewing curves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/172eb865-b512-44e1-9c16-647e5d2d3315/InsetCircle10.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Once we’re at the machine, I like to focus on three things. First, keep the edges of the fabric aligned. It’s very easy to let the edge of the exterior circle to creep away from the edge of the circle unit. This messes with the seam allowance, and can lead to a block with lots of fullness. Stitch slowly and lift the presser foot as necessary to adjust the fabric and keep the edges aligned. Second, I like to manage the bulk of the exterior piece by gathering it in my left hand. I use my right hand to keep the edges aligned and my left to collect the excess fabric to the left of the seam. With my left hand, I’m also encouraging the exterior circle unit to lay flat at the seam allowance by keeping tension on the unit. Third, as I sew, I do not let excess fabric collect in front of the machine foot. If, as you approach a pin, lots of fabric is getting bunched up between the foot and the pin, I’d recommend breaking thread and seam ripping. The block will not turn out well if you just remove the pin and continue sewing. This is why we say stitch slowly. The faster you sew around the circle, the more likely it is that you’ll shift fibers and ruin all the work we did to align the creases and distribute the fabric around the circle. The more slowly you sew, the more often you adjust the bulky fabric in your left hand, the more often you lift your presser foot to to smooth out fabric directly in front of the needle, the better your block will turn out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9ba39255-cd42-4f2e-9932-3411b502143a/InsetCircle13.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle Once you’ve sewn around the circle, I recommend setting the seam with the iron, then gently finger pressing the seam. Pressing outwards is the most common option for inset circles, but always check your specific pattern. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b625a29b-3942-4ac5-8b2a-1b83252b9152/InsetCircle11.jpeg Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle I like to press the iron at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock on the block first. It’s very important to remember to press, not iron. Once the horizontal and vertical sides are set, I press at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock on the block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b3d4129f-2827-44f0-8e77-cd52bf25c3af/InsetCircle12.JPG Blog - How to Sew an Inset Circle The Pump Queen block is designed to be trimmed to size. My rotating cutting mat isn’t big enough for this step, but if yours is, I recommend using it. I keep two light dumbbells on my cutting table to weigh down large rulers and prevent them from moving around on me. With this block, just make sure that the vertical/horizontal lines on the ruler run along the patchwork seams. If you’ve opted for the wonky alignment, this won’t be true. Congratulations! You’ve just sewed a perfect inset circle! Now you can tackle anything. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/pump-queen-sorting-scraps-equilateral-triangles-nc2cw monthly 0.5 2024-09-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7507d8b3-2b78-4a27-951c-102633614b3c/Patchwork1.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Patchwork Web Piecing Web piecing is such a soothing, satisfying part of quilting. If you’ve never web pieced a quilt block before, it’s a efficient method of assembling the block that speeds up your sewing. The goal of web piecing is to sew the rows together by working our way down the columns. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ca9bcb8e-c5dd-4761-9a57-f9bd680da027/Patchwork2.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Patchwork Web Piecing I recommend checking your seam allowance. I keep a piece of tape on my machine, and use that as a guide for all my piecing. I prep my pieces by laying out all the squares and triangles in the correct order on the right side of my machine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/16383f49-2359-4a44-ad11-8115b49e0771/Patchwork3.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Patchwork Web Piecing Flip units in the second column over so they are face down on top of the first column. One at at time, sew each pair together. Do not cut thread between the pairs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/be808ece-0f8e-469d-aa51-a104dd6247e6/Patchwork4.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Patchwork Web Piecing Once columns 1 and 2 are sewn together, you can bring the entire chain back over. Because everything is laid out so nicely, it is easy to see which square gets sewn next. All the squares in column 3 get sewn to the squares in column 2. Open up the top pair of row 1 and sew the top piece in column 3 to it. Continue working your way down each column in this manner, bring the chained units back to the unsewn units when each column is finished. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c9d875f0-20c9-4692-a8b7-b49bf78b2152/Patchwork5.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Patchwork Web Piecing Eventually, you’ll end up with pieced rows that are attached to each other by short lengths of thread. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/fa1f0740-cb5c-46e8-9ec0-b93373294643/Patchwork6.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Patchwork Web Piecing Here is the whole unit. Look closely and you’ll see that all the rows are connected to each other. Once all the rows are stitched, I like to finger press the seams in alternating directions for nesting seams. I almost always prefer nesting seams; I experimented with pressing the triangle seams open in this block…I did not like it. You could always take the web pieced unit over to your iron to press before sewing the rows together, but I found that finger pressing does the job well enough. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0e645db4-fb72-4223-a50a-8b2baff4bc24/Patchwork7.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Patchwork Web Piecing To sew the rows together, I sew together rows 1, 2, and 3. Then I sew row 4 to row 5, then finally the whole thing. I don’t use pins because the nesting seams help keep everything aligned. Before trimming the patchwork using Template 2 of the Pump Queen pattern, I like to leave this under a heavy book overnight, as this helps the seams stay flat during final assembly. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/pump-queen-sorting-scraps-equilateral-triangles monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/73b217ea-c4d4-4efb-a38f-ead6706e5246/Triangle11.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles Sometimes the most simple shapes can make the biggest design impact. The equilateral triangles, inset circle and patchwork squares play together so elegantly in the Pump Queen block! Making the triangles is so straight forward and fun that you’ll have a hard time stopping at just six of them. I’ve written the pattern so that you mark on the right side of the fabric. Some other equilateral triangle patterns have you mark on the wrong side of the fabric. I found that to be confusing, but you should know that that is an option if you don’t like using marking tools on the right side of your patchwork. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c7ff410f-a432-44d8-9be0-827eb4678466/Triangle1.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles Make sure you reference Table 1 in the pattern to know how many center, left and right triangles to make. To make a center triangle, I’ve aligned the 60 degree line with the bottom of the square and drawn a line from the corner of the block to the center top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/11bbb39a-62be-427d-afa8-1f9f00c3655e/Triangle2.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles I noted in the Sorting Scraps blog post that you can use incomplete squares in the eyes and nose triangles. Remember, you need complete squares for the background fabric to use in the smile triangles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/40ee8716-6d74-40d1-9445-c53f30d4078a/Triangle3.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles To mark the second 60 degree line, I rotate my ruler and draw the line in the same manner as the first side. I use a FriXion pen - I like that the ink disappears with heat, as opposed to other pens that require water or air. (I used a red FriXion pen on the dark fabric and it left some white residue…time will tell if it disappears. The black ink on light fabrics seems to work just fine!) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/6e1982eb-dc2c-487e-a242-373a459c4ad6/Triangle4.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles Once the lines are marked, trim the square into a triangle by cutting away from the lines. “Away” means away from the center of the block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/270023cb-47d2-4fa7-a88a-2191dac6888a/Triangle5.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles We have several center triangles to make. You have two options moving forward. 1) You can repeat marking the drawn lines as described in the pattern. Or 2) you can use one center triangle as a template to trim the remaining squares as pictured here. I don’t recommend the second option until you have made a few equilateral triangles and are confident that you have marked everything accurately. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ede0a4ab-db3b-4249-9dfd-d46923ce34a2/Triangle6.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles To make the left and right triangles, the process is similar to the center triangle, but not identical. First, you only need to draw one line. Second, to trim the block, you will trim in from the drawn line. “In” means towards the center of the block. And in the case of the background fabric, you need to use some of the discarded trimmings to make all the right and left triangles. Pictured here are two methods to get all the triangles from the discards of the background fabric. At the top, you’ll see a blue fabric right triangle, and an upside down right triangle in my pumpkin fabric laying on top of the blue discards. I can use the pumpkin fabric unit as a template to trim the blue fabric. Or I can continue to use the 60 degree line on my ruler to mark the discards, as I am doing at the bottom of the picture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e1f54f63-ebf8-486f-9cc3-fb7c92380cb3/Triangle7.JPG Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles Here, I have stitched a left triangle to a center triangle. You can see the seam runs directly from the bottom left corner of the top triangle to the top right tip of the bottom triangle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2c7adba5-bd1e-4fce-933f-1a10a056dfa9/Triangle8.JPG Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles Here is the same unit, but flipped over. Notice the edge near my thumb; the left and right triangles always slightly extend past the center triangle edge here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0a8dea68-3c17-464e-8ce4-dedf7f4e2279/Triangle9.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles Here is the right triangle sewn onto the center triangle. Notice the seam intersects the patchwork exactly at the top, and hits the bottom right corner perfectly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/15a50e45-c00a-454a-85c2-b08d7af563cd/Triangle10.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Equilateral Triangles As noted in the pattern, I suggest using a scant seam allowance for the equilateral triangles. This gives me just a smidge of trimming room on the sides! I like to leave the untrimmed units under a heavy object overnight, just to make sure the fibers don’t shift around too much after I square up the unit. And that’s it. This piece, with the pumpkin fabric in the center triangle, will end up being used in the smile. An equilateral triangle with the background fabric in the center triangle would be used as an eye or for the nose. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/pump-queen-sorting-scraps monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d6252720-2dfb-4e64-b05b-9bb3ee0d1266/Low+Volume.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Sorting Scraps I start by laying out a 5 x 5 square of patchwork. The 3 remaining squares are used in the eyes and nose. Look closely at the pictures and you’ll see that I actually have pairs of fabric in the spots for the eyes and the nose. In this layout, I’ve played with low volume scraps (or at least low volume for me!). A low volume Pump Queen would look good with pretty much any background fabric color. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/27061444-d328-4c89-adcf-b6240db5c01b/Solids.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Sorting Scraps If you want something a little more realistic, you can play around with warm solids like I did here. My favorite tips for sorting out my scraps is this - you can get away with using imperfect 2½" x 2½" squares for the eyes, nose and corner pieces! You could even get away with using imperfect scraps in the teeth units. Look closely, and you’ll see that I have some very scrappy squares laid out in those spots. It’ll take some experimenting to learn how “complete” your scrap has to be. This is true for the pumpkin fabric only - you need complete squares for the background fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e4b11ef4-28c1-45e0-bcfe-7345052e9dbe/Monochrome+Prints.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Sorting Scraps I have to admit, I’ve become a print addict. I used to be a solids-only quilter, but I have really turned a corner! If you want to cram as many prints as possible into your Pump Queen block, consider a monochromatic approach. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2f29a8dd-09e0-4e12-862f-c1def4c43a05/Black.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Sorting Scraps In this version, I’ve pulled out all my black scraps for a haunted pumpkin look! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a9459351-2e12-467a-8dda-9ccd55857a2d/Purple+Patchwork.jpeg Blog - Pump Queen: Sorting Scraps This is where I settled on the patchwork. A two-tone mix using prints and solids. I wanted a little bit of organization, so the purples and oranges are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Whatever color combination you use, just keep enough contrast between the patchwork fabrics and the background fabric. Don’t forget to cut the background fabric so you’re ready to dive into the equilateral triangles next. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/circus-ring-sal-week-4 monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a524b93c-cd65-42de-940e-651f6924da2c/pinned+units.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 4 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/bc214991-ae1d-497f-a900-1532323cab52/arc+melon+1+and+center.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 4 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/bc22173a-6321-4ba4-908e-6c8b68753992/First+pin.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 4 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1675991131323-LBOIOFCDNXNGMR15MBCE/at+the+sewing+machine+1.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 4 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1675991145601-CO8H6EBLM8CPH5SRQRU2/at+the+sewing+machine+2.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 4 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1675991148998-SGGDTVZ40PTFJ9663K5B/at+the+sewing+machine+3.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 4 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/circus-ring-sal-week-3 monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9ba18a55-eec6-4b0c-8d27-eab4bdffef88/Melon+and+arc.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 3 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/75e73cd6-ccaf-4d07-b34d-be8556eb9418/melon+second+arc.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 3 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/896bd1f2-68c1-4499-95a3-3fc8642fa565/Melon+and+arc+with+corners.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 3 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/circus-ring-sal-week-2 monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/6a4bf031-54c1-460d-a6c3-a4f6920bcb32/Circus+Ring+wedge.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 2 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/732b6a4e-38d2-4981-ba10-fd5cb92721b7/Pieced+arcs.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 2 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/12c2075d-61a8-4d07-8f75-2b8d9a169148/Trimming+arcs.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 2 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c9ac6e32-fe9f-4e22-bddd-fee2608bb812/Sewing+corners.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 2 - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/spare-block-packing-cube-tutorial monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e6e1239b-6fc9-4c25-8ef9-ca624b4bc894/Packing+Cube+1.JPG Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1674670197953-LRWZQNFR6QPSU7G3WSRN/Packing%2BCube%2B2.jpg Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1674670386419-SLFY8MNRTX3845KJBF5W/Packing+Cube+5.JPG Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1674670721468-6N3DHWJQET2FPCAPWXRV/Packing+Cube+6.JPG Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1674670770473-JB1XQM6YJUE336XWP1O8/Packing+Cube+3.JPG Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/fea733d9-39e5-42a0-8805-0b419e1d1df7/All+items.jpeg Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Not pictured, the two 2" x 40" rectangles of batting. The strip/checker pattern is the exterior fabric. The lavender doll fabric is the interior fabric. Fabrics used in the #StarCrossedLovers quilt block are from my stash. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7cb800d6-eb00-4baa-8fc5-c7708db07dd5/Quilted+pieces.jpeg Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out The quilted and trimmed top, bottom and back pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/29c3aeef-e70b-48c0-89ce-e50fd9397097/Zipper+gusset+1.png Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/4880a726-5cf0-46c6-b4e2-5bb17db1311e/Zipper+gusset+2.png Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b5ef7e03-a89d-4525-9741-e29fce07aaf4/Gusset+circle.png Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/95fadca4-4944-436c-872e-cae73b66c04b/Notch.jpeg Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/08f1b638-69aa-4d31-a263-ee88a8383ab3/Zipper+gusset+notches.png Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7a2d6c01-1450-4b42-9ef2-8b38f9b8d2a2/Attach+top+and+gusset.png Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d2eb4380-959b-4d36-a180-f126eb44eafd/Packing+Cube+7.JPG Blog - Spare Block Packing Cube Tutorial - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/circus-ring-sal-week-1 monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1673456530399-93BS7HPC5W7EJ7L3X0X0/IMG_9879.jpeg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 1 In this quilt, I planned to use one color family in each arc melon, but didn’t get too fussy about the order of the colors therein. I knew I wanted to use a directional background fabric, so I referenced the cutting diagram on page 3 of the pattern to make sure everything would run in the correct orientation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1673456664420-DBKEU8BGC2NF8XV6G2VB/IMG_9891.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 1 In this quilt, I played with a coordinated color layout, and made all the arcs identical. Once they are sewn to the melon, they create this twisty, turny sense of movement. I used a solid background fabric to really let the pattern and colors shine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5148bda7-aec3-4e43-9678-8e2612ca306d/AL1062145+2.jpg Blog - Circus Ring SAL - Week 1 To make the SAL bonus color layout, follow the cutting instructions on page 2 of the SAL bonus worksheet (you received a link to that in your SAL sign up confirmation email). The diagrams show how to cut arcs from both directional and non-directional fabric. This layout removes piecing the wedges, but you still get all the practice of sewing the curves and center pieces. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/bias-binding-from-a-fat-quarter monthly 0.5 2026-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/502380b1-879a-4372-b7ba-a2e16666ce70/SparksFly.gif Blog - Make bias binding from a FQ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f9ba27e4-ce8d-4ec8-bad1-896c101d1e7a/IMG_9700.jpeg Blog - Make bias binding from a FQ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/32a4c3a9-2ea0-471f-92e7-b492dced1930/IMG_9703.jpeg Blog - Make bias binding from a FQ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/dff97b9b-c18d-4591-97a6-6230aa65eeb3/IMG_9705.jpeg Blog - Make bias binding from a FQ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/282a0d70-8abc-498e-9d6b-2e5c9995157f/IMG_9709.jpeg Blog - Make bias binding from a FQ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/58e31eb5-2b72-4f6c-b942-54f30d702710/IMG_9712.jpeg Blog - Make bias binding from a FQ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/72723817-fbef-46c4-b0c0-705c8c3f65a5/IMG_9719.jpeg Blog - Make bias binding from a FQ - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://mijahandmade.com/blog/category/What+to+make monthly 0.5 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/category/Quilting+Inspiration monthly 0.5 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/category/How+to+make+it monthly 0.5 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/tag/Circus+Ring+Quilt monthly 0.5 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/tag/Pump+Queen monthly 0.5 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/tag/Quilt+Basics monthly 0.5 https://mijahandmade.com/blog/tag/SAL monthly 0.5 https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog daily 0.75 2026-10-29 https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/december-comma monthly 0.5 2024-12-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732468429108-DG5GR03MKENJ02UQHLEI/Comma+Block.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma - The Comma quilt block is the block that I have tested the most extensively. Each time I made a new block, I tweaked the templates or clarified the assembly instructions, or just plain learned something new about the block. You can see several of my test blocks below! Before we get too deep into this month’s information, I want to take a moment to express how thankful I am that you have joined me on this Learning Curves journey! I’ve had so much fun hearing about your progress on these blocks and have met so many lovely quilters. I hope you have had as much fun as I have, and that you have some lovely winter holidays ahead of you! A quick housekeeping note: I will leave the Learning Curve member site active through February 2025. Please make sure you download all the patterns and bonus sheets before then. The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. Denim Cottage Soldier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732469158748-V2N7UQCALI7XAMIJ9B4H/Comma2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732469159184-NUU0GG1KRLVSSSRIPN91/Comma3.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732469164349-AVDE1799P3UBGFBI0U3C/Comma4.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732469824284-3F36FAF8O13V9JAJ45CS/1Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732469824967-NZR6RXJT6P3POXMVNVNK/2Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732469825603-EW5R613K5V0NMXS49AZU/3Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732469826511-OZYDV2DENEE35YLZI0XD/4Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732470595097-WFMWYAKYKHP0Z5Z5Z5CI/CommaBag1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1732470595699-FFLO8LJ8YP2ZUK5G3V8E/CommaBag2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a1536cfb-d352-4d45-981b-ecf9fd0882bc/5Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma Double check that you’ve sewn these curves perfectly by measuring it against Template 8. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ef235c1b-1f32-4d51-b3f0-a90497eb367c/6Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma To transfer the concave curve registration marks to the wrong side of the fabric, I lay the template right side up on the wrong side of the fabric, and align the curves. The template itself isn’t identical, but the registration marks are symmetrical around the curve. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/29f9ed81-e5b8-4a9a-a885-cf6bce6d4b83/7Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma I did not clip the seam allowance on this curve while sewing (remember it is always an option!). But I did clip the seam allowance afterwards to help it lay flat when I pressed it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/58262be5-63f9-4044-9292-663a07674875/8Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma At this point, the piecing doesn’t look like much, but look at those curves! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a71a47e4-c69f-429b-a280-d2bba001ee0f/9Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma To trim the rectangle to a half circle, I like to use plenty of my washers to keep everything in place. Make sure you align the line on the template with the seam. In fact, you can even cheat the template down a thread or two - this will help ensure that you completely catch the seam allowance as you sew each subsequent template. I’ll admit, catching the seam allowance perfectly is a tricky part of the pattern. I had about a 75% success rate each time I tested this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/56112341-5ab9-4424-9baa-edae66b3f728/10Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma In this photo, I’m pointing to the seam allowance you want to make sure to catch in the upcoming seam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ad0e97ed-4cdd-4264-a90d-d66824747476/11Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma I made a few unforced errors in this block - by pointing them out to you, I hope you can avoid them. I added too much slack to the back half of this curve. This resulted in the ends of the units being imperfectly aligned, as you can see here. I should have seam ripped this and resewn the units, but I was losing light for photographs and decided to push forward. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/88856baf-b255-4fc9-9b36-06b7c89a106b/12Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma After trimming the rectangle to a half circle again, we have one more concave curve to sew to this side of the block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/add18531-b682-4e0d-b40f-9c07a1d76662/13Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma Nine tenths of this curve looks great. It’s the last little bit that I want to point out to you. I made two errors. 1) I didn’t catch the seam allowance early enough. Once I trim the block to size, the points aren’t going to beautifully disappear into the seam. They are going to make a hard stop. 2) I continued to put too much slack into the back half of the curve, so the left side of this block is pretty unsightly. Ultimately, it’s fine as we’re going to trim the edges straight, but I would have liked a bit more accuracy up front. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/86479416-685e-4d3c-be04-390a1fbfba86/14Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma I must have been in a mood when I was sewing this block. I made yet another unforced error. When I trimmed this unit, I trimmed from too many sides. Don’t be like me. Trim from just the one side indicated in the pattern. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e7456cc0-d279-45ee-ab13-3912a57ac588/15Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma I’ll gloss over the second half of the unit quickly, as it’s the same exact steps as the first half, just with fewer unit. Remember to align the line on the template with the seam of the curve. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/977264ba-b686-4bc2-b02a-ec8b1599a711/16Comma.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma Here you can see why trimming the first half of the block too much, too early is an issue. Once the two halves are stitched up, the entire block is trimmed down to size. But I didn’t have the appropriate trimming room after my error. Don’t be like me. Follow the pattern directions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/85874456-a5b5-4b95-bdcb-94eeab0d93a0/Learning+Curves-2.jpg Learning Curves Blog - December: Comma And here is my complete Learning Curves BOM quilt top! I’ve added finishing directions to the member page, but it’s just a simple addition of some sashing! I just want to thank you again for joining me this year. I’ve learned a ton and I hope you have too! And in case you haven’t seen, I’ll be launching my 2025 BOM soon - check out more details about the Broom Cupboard quilt! https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/september-relic monthly 0.5 2024-11-24 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/cabf9a0f-5b5a-4f86-ab31-90dc78fc331e/RELIC.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic - When I designed this block, I was playing a lot of video games, specifically Tears of the Kingdom. I think I was heavily influenced by the glowing runes and stone temples in the game. Of all the blocks we’ve sewn so far, this one is the most experimental. We’re using partial curve units with lots of bias edges. Let’s plan to stitch slowly to help keep everything aligned perfectly. The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. Denim Cottage Soldier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e301618b-6f26-4914-a669-ecc0a1931b0f/RELIC+ALT.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic You may prefer a center star unit instead of the main design. The bonus sheet provides instructions on how to make this star. Follow those instructions and jump back into the pattern at part 5. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/85da3f8d-b29f-455e-b251-47338c0d0fa4/relic1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic I’m going to cruise through the first parts of the pattern. This large unit gets cut up into lots of small units. I have a 14½" x 14½" ruler, which helps when cutting this into quarters. As always, I recommend leaving the pieced units under something heavy to help flatten the seams. I moved pretty quickly through this block and I kind of regret it. There is just a little bit of extra fullness in the block that I attribute to not waiting for my seams to fall flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/bf519660-b618-43fa-a91b-d974e489d314/relic2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic It’s slightly more efficient to to cut Template 2 with the unit wrong side up. This is because you can immediately transfer the registration marks to the wrong side of the unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1729541868843-GO022W40W4XUVBMSZKCR/relic+3.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1729541873336-MS4B242HP0H2DS82270F/relic4.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1729541875409-CIQ0M9RZIJ36T50ZZD92/relic5.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5bce4475-3183-4e78-bdf2-72b45609d733/relic6.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic When assembling the center square, make sure to pay special attention to the orientation of the rectangular units. As long at the fabrics at each corner match, you should be good to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/610c4efa-7a8a-4957-aaa7-89882383e180/relic7.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic Here’s where we start to get experimental! These partial curve units are a little different but really fun when you get them just right! We’ve been practicing curves all year - I believe in you! To start, when I match the center registration marks, I like to measure the end of the units at pictured here. You want to make sure you have an even amount of fabric on each end. You should have somewhere between 3½" and 3⅝" of fabric at each end. This measure will depend on the accuracy of your cutting. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a0775599-38e4-49f0-bdca-af72ad5bbddd/relic8.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic When everything is pinned, I like to double check the ¼" measurement at the end of the unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c598e5e5-f026-4051-ac00-155013f53fff/relic10.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic The stitching line should intersect these pieces exactly where the units meet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/465e053e-9ae8-4432-b2aa-a0d543588be9/relic11.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic Once all the partial curve units are sewn up, it’s time to attached them to the center square. It doesn’t matter which side you start sewing along. Again, the accuracy of your piecing and the grain of your units will impact the accuracy here. The first two units will extend past the edges of the center square. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/6f9d0147-533a-4097-bdf2-aea202896616/relic12.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic When I took this picture, I didn’t realize that my thumb was completely in the way! To keep everything aligned perfectly, I inserted a pin right at the stitching line, ¼" in from the right edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/719004a7-50c4-47ab-ba7d-2f614aad6d96/relic13.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic If you perfectly align the seam, you should open up the sewn units and the curve seam will start exactly ¼" in from the top edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/95f4eecc-70f3-48f8-b9b6-88be40df1da2/relic14.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic In this photo, I’m sewing the third partial curve to the unit. You’ll see that the unit doesn’t quite reach the edge of the larger unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f70cee4e-52eb-4c56-90a7-bc7adf223dba/relic15.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic To ensure accuracy, insert a pin ¼" in from the right edge, along the curved seam of the partial curve unit. The pin should hit the bottom unit right where the curved seam disappears into the seam. If you are having a difficult time aligning these points, I’d recommend prioritizing pinning in the perfect spot, even if this means you' have a skinny seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0da676df-f4ce-46b2-8505-5b28fdf512d8/relic16.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic Notice how the stitching line intersects the corner of the partial curve unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2ee6e4b8-1e78-4eb6-9517-cf61408f4705/relic17.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic At this point, we have three units sewn to the center square. Sewing the fourth partial curve unit is the same as the third. Prioritizing pinning at the curve seam intersections help create this circle unit in the background of the block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7a4b7d1c-fdfd-48ab-a50f-016b0b8f28b8/relic18.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - November: Relic Once the fourth unit is stitched on, we can trim the unit. You can see I’ve got a pretty perfect ¼" seam allowance around the edges of the curve. Spending time getting the curve seams aligned perfectly really contributes to the overall success of the block. Again, I recommend leaving this under a heavy object before trimming. https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/october-lillette monthly 0.5 2024-10-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1727706960731-PRXX1TARHQQS8UH48YUD/Lillette11.jpg Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette - Get ready to channel Monet because this month, we’re diving into Lillette. Inspired by his Water Lily series, I wanted to bring together art history and quilting. This was a difficult pattern to write - the pattern instructions you have is my third version. I was very picky about the proportion of flower to lily pad, which meant that I had to introduce ⅛ measurements. I also wanted to leave as little left over fabric as possible, so I had to figure out how to best use leftover fabric to cut out the background fabric units. I hope it’s all paid off and that you have a blast making this block! The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. Denim Cottage Soldier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c284ec01-168a-48b3-b9c5-f9c7446c2c58/Lillete1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette Not only are we sewing curves for the first time, we’re using a new kind of template. For the first time, we’re cutting out a curve with the template aligned to the folds of the fabric, rather than the raw edge. This kind of template is most often used for large circles. When you' have everything folded and Template 3 is aligned to the folds, you should have one inch of fabric at the edges of the template, as pictured here. Don’t throw away the interior circle - the cutting instructions tell you how to get all the remaining background units from this piece. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/31a98dd1-bb8b-43d4-9635-66c32cfdda87/Lillette2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette Next, we move on to the quarter circle blocks. We’re making several, in three different combinations of fabric. I recommend sorting your units into piles first. This way it’s easy to keep straight which convex curves go with which concave curves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/aa533afa-0e65-4266-ac4e-4f7cddc56a3a/Lillette3.JPG Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette These aren’t the smallest quarter circle blocks we’ve made. The Bear Bloom quarter circles were smaller by ⅛". If you found a good method for sewing curves in that block, I recommend you follow whatever steps you used previously. This time around, I wanted to try glue basting my curves. I knew that I wanted to press my seams to the side, so glue basting wouldn’t be an issue. If you want to press open, I don’t recommend glue. Whether you’re using glue or not, I recommend prepping the blocks by making small cuts around the seam allowance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3f6c26cb-028f-4c85-bde3-5cfca625ef41/Lillette4.JPG Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette As always, I crease my pieces by folding the convex piece RST and the concave piece wrong sides together. To glue baste my curves, I found it easiest to work in an assembly line fashion. I wanted to glue at the center crease and both ends of the unit - if I tried to do one unit all at once, the glue was always too wet and the pieces slipped around on me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ad4e7d60-a2bd-42b4-9967-c3369b1de285/Lillette5.JPG Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette I started by gluing all the units at the creased center. By the time I was done with the last unit, the first unit was dry enough to manipulate the curves so could glue one of the two ends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a28e8824-ca92-4b0d-b6a4-4268dc8ef978/Lillette6.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette If you plan to press the seams open, you don’t need to do much planning. I love a nested seam so I took an extra minute to lay out my curves and figure out which curves I would press inwards, and which would get pressed outwards. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b05d459f-bf31-4e16-b2eb-d5b3a5adb180/Lillette7.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette When it comes time to trim the quarter circle units, I recommend using a 4½" x 4½" ruler, adding tape guidelines to the 2⅝" x 2⅝" lines, and marking where the 2⅜" lines converge. This way, you never have to think about the ⅛" measurements while trimming. When I add tape guidelines to my ruler, I like to leave the tiniest bit of room between the line I’m marking and my tape. You can see my tape doesn’t quite reach the 2⅝" line - this small gap just helps me align my pieces that much better. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a9655745-cfd5-4861-8744-8e6fe20e67ec/Lillette8.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette In this picture, I’ve already trimmed two sides of the quarter circle block. The two trimmed sides are now aligned with the taped 2⅝" lines on my ruler, and the seam hits the marked 2⅜" point exactly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d24b65dd-bb45-4c81-a388-e5b4164fc089/Lillette10.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - October: Lillette Once the pieces are trimmed, assembling and cutting out the center flower unit is relatively straightforward. Again, I recommend leaving the center 9" square under a heavy book for some time. There are lots of seams in that square, and a flat block is easier to work with. For all my insight into sewing an inset circle, check out this separate blog post. I have so much to share that it can’t be contained in one place! Once you’ve read through that, make sure to let me know how our first inset circle went! Send me an email, or share your progress on Instagram with #learningcurvesbom and #lilletteblock. https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/september-incline monthly 0.5 2024-09-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f8b4ef8f-f7b3-4c6c-921f-30c4fe929986/Incline9.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline - Hiking is a big deal here in Colorado - I couldn’t pass up the chance to make a block that celebrates hiking up big inclines and mountain sides! We get another respite from sewing curves this month, but we’re still practicing our piecing skills. This month, we dial in our seam allowance with some long, skinny strips. The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. Denim Cottage Soldier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/32c9c3b7-0f40-4b44-8492-b8b6ee12a964/Incline1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline Cutting the units is a straightforward affair again. And - if you’re taking a scrappy approach to these blocks - the Incline block is another opportunity to play with directional fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9d6732e4-d507-4423-a717-d01feff2b197/Incline2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline The pattern walks you through the stitch and flip method used to make all the columns. You have two options to mark the diagonal sewing line. Pictured here is the option to simply fold the top unit along the diagonal, mark the crease and use the crease as the sewing guide. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/035d2422-acac-42fe-91f1-a0cba92da010/Incline3.JPG Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline The second option is a little slower, but I think it offers just a little more precision. On the wrong side of the top unit, measure 2" in from the “right” edge (this is actually the bottom edge when everything is assembled, but to make the stitch and flip method work, we’ve rotated the unit 90 degrees). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0c18bcf5-6a89-4dbe-bf0c-3aabc1e5699c/Incline4.JPG Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline Once the 2" mark is made, draw a diagonal line to the bottom right corner. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b74bc54a-b300-4e7b-840f-32ce7dcc01b1/Incline6.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline I like to work with one column at a time so I don’t get confused. In this picture, I have laid out all the units for Column 3. Working from the top towards the bottom, I draw the diagonal lines on the top two units of each column. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1724863736030-UD8GIYZ7HU9QK700MSTR/Incline5.JPG Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1724863748469-4HXB5Q4NZ40U2UUXEB2K/Incline7.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f78b07b0-6bfd-49ba-b486-57cdbaeceb0e/Incline8.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline These columns come together so quickly! Laying them out can be a bit confusing, so I like to pay attention to the smallest unit in the column to help me orient everything correctly. Column 1 is used in the first spot - I look to see if the smallest unit is at the top or bottom. Column 2 is placed next - it’s a little more obvious that the smallest unit is at the top. The second Column 2 is used in the sixth spot of the block. You can see that the smallest unit is at the bottom, so I know to flip that block around. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/514d2632-8c07-4715-a724-8c0fda02bf04/RSS+Good+Spirits+Mockup.jpg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline The Incline block is meant to tesselate perfectly when several blocks are sewn together! Make sure you download the bonus sheet - it walks you through how to use yardage to turn the block pattern into a throw size quilt pattern! Because Halloween is coming up, I couldn’t help but mock up the block up in some spooky fabrics. Check out this version using Ruby Star Society’s Good spirits collection. Fabric C: Mini Starry Black Pairs of fabrics are as follows: Creepy Damask/Scaredy Cats Ghostly Wise Moons S’mores/Curios Ghostly Hey Boo Creme Brulee/Loves Me Not Black Curios S’mores/Creepy Damask Caviar Mini Starry Citron/Hey Boo Ghostly https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ea9822b6-4e44-4bd6-9c99-9be6bab3b849/RSS+Speckled+Mockup.jpg Learning Curves Blog - September: Incline If you want something more appropriate to use year round, here it is in the new RSS Speckled fabric. I think this version works particularly well when you use one color in different values for each row. Fabric C: Creme Brulee Pairs of fabrics are as follows: Chambray/Water Blue Goldenrod/Golden Hour Playful/Flamingo Verdant/Pistachio Lupine/Macaron https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/august-cheese-puff monthly 0.5 2024-08-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1bc62e50-1075-44ee-ae54-6fb9ee23603c/IMG_7955.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff - The Cheese Puff quilt block is inspired by my favorite snack! Just don’t eat them while you’re quilting, otherwise you’ll get that cheese dust all over your project! We sewed small half circles last month - this month we’re building out those skills with three small half circles. Make sure you pay attention to the order of the template units this month, as they aren’t identical as they may first appear. The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. Denim Cottage Soldier https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/af2d6978-cfa1-46a9-b468-46bb60c42297/IMG_7890.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff This month, cutting is a breeze! This is one of the few blocks where I think it’s fun to play with directional fabric in the background. Make sure you reference the cutting guide if you plan to use directional prints. You can also make the block a little scrappy by cutting each Template 1, 3 and 5 from different fabrics. Check out what scrappy blocks look like in this month’s bonus sheet. But make sure to keep each template labeled correctly! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e6355696-aec1-4d21-ae62-151c25b2bdd2/IMG_7894.JPG Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff We’re still working with small half circles. This month I played around with making small snips in the Template 2 curve. This helped considerably! Just make sure your snips don’t render the registration marks unreadable. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/949cb1ac-a7e1-42f8-ae7b-219239ac5cc7/IMG_7901.jpg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff I’m constantly playing with the number of pins I like to use. I found 5 pins to be acceptable here. This is what the Template 1 and Template 2 unit looks like once it’s pinned. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/86dbec3d-1c68-467a-a889-71133cbeac2d/IMG_7907.JPG Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff Once we’re at the machine, we’ve got a slightly easier time of it than we had last month. There isn’t a mass of fabric in the concave unit to manage here. You can see here that the snips really help the concave unit lay flat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/84f9782f-7422-4972-8075-ad0653d4407d/IMG_7915.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff Here are my two units from Part 1. I’m pretty happy with how straight the bottom edge is, but the sides are a bit wonky. Don’t worry though - these templates are designed to be trimmed to size so I can correct that bit of that wonk. As always, I recommend leaving units under a book for a short while before trimming. I’ve also pressed the curve towards the concave unit - this allows some seams to nest later on in construction. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1722308129865-62ZUUTQYMYULQLQS4PSO/IMG_7921.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1722308132221-4XDAOZOTIKBWEBL13R1S/IMG_7922.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3dad2ec3-a03d-467a-be2a-55ccf45acd65/IMG_7916.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff Now we can move on the sewing the arc units together. The units align perfectly when they are right sides together. But I want to take a second to show that it’s important to keep the units in the correct order. In this photo, I’ve laid the paper Template 3 on top of the Reverse Template 3 unit and you can see they are not interchangeable. This is due to the trimming room built into the template. Just keep everything labeled and sewn in the correct order, and you won’t run into any issues. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/69b788bb-b562-49a4-97e6-adcd7c4a1388/IMG_7937.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff Once the arc is pieced, we return to our half circles. I’ve put small snips in the pieced arc, making sure to avoid the seams. Once I’ve got everything pinned, I like to lay the unit flat and make sure the long, straight edge lays relatively straight. If it isn’t laying straight, I’ll readjust my pins and ease the fabrics until I like how it sits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/4c78c446-90f9-45dd-9888-2d6ae00703c2/IMG_7938.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff Last month, we practiced managing bulk in the concave piece. This step is similar, but a little more manageable! I like to gather the fabric in concave unit in my left hand, as pictured here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/cd82b8b7-b71f-473d-a9ec-cee7036674cd/IMG_7939.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff Again, you can see how the snips help everything lay flat, and by keeping the concave unit gathered in my hand, I can sew around this curve pretty easily! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1722310589605-ADVYK8VFL6GHNTMSNZ53/IMG_7940.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1722310589296-RZWZM3GJPMP7WCR9MJEK/IMG_7941.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c6d863c6-9741-46b9-8077-c301f0a2572a/IMG_7942.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff We’re old hats at sewing these comfortable half circles now. I still love my five-pin approach for these. If you like nesting seams, press this seam inwards. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d2443d32-fbae-441b-9859-80bae2049eb3/IMG_7947.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff Now we get to trim this unit. Trimming from all 4 sides is required. Again, feel free to leave this under a heavy object for a while to really smush it down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c81ff9c9-05e8-436e-b2a2-f1a5b2d522e5/IMG_7950.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - August: Cheese Puff If you’ve followed all the pressing instructions, you’ll end up with these lovely nesting seams. I can’t tell you how happy my heart gets when I can nest my seams. I hope you feel the same way about the final block construction! https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/july-bobbin monthly 0.5 2024-07-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/bbb0fadf-15e6-459d-a0d3-6b3920de594a/Bobbin+block.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin - I’m so happy to introduce you to the Bobbin quilt block! It’s a small ode to that teeny tiny tiny sewing notion that always runs out at the most inopportune time! This month, we’re tackling half circles, big and small. I have LOTS to share about sewing the small half circles, so keep reading! The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Denim Cottage Soldier Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/bb5bd567-8558-43ec-b19e-a6857764606f/simplified+block.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin Third This is the first month where I suggest making the simplified block as outlined in the bonus sheet before (or dare I say instead of?) the patchwork block as outlined in the pattern. Making the simplified block will still get you the curve practice, but will eliminate the patchwork and extra bulk which makes the curves easier to sew. If you are very comfortable with curves, you can handle the pattern as written. If you’re still building your confidence try the simplified block first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/870eece2-a55a-470c-8648-6acbd4efc412/cutting+templates.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin We’re going to jump straight to part 2 of the pattern. Technically, Template 1 and 2 are identical in shape. But we need to use the center X in specific orientations to keep the X oriented correctly in the block. So just pay close attention to the orientation of the templates, as illustrated in each step of the pattern. You can see here that pattern weights will be your friend as you trim the arcs. I also made good use of my rotating cutting mat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/181d7d95-a8e5-45ff-9c1a-e6984ae56d78/inner+curve.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin I used a rotary blade to cut three sides of the template, but found the small concave curve too small to comfortably cut this way. So I marked it with a pen and used my scissors to finish trimming. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/511c6b32-dc38-46db-b2e1-5bd7170dd541/aligning+units.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin Once all the arcs are trimmed, it’s time to assemble. Sewing together the arcs is my favorite step of the whole pattern! When they are RST, they align perfectly - no futzing with overlapping corners or anything. So satisfying! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/dce2ee65-f7fc-4f9a-8bd5-c910be238b12/creasing.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin It’s time to take a deep breathe and prepare to be patient. This small half circle is the most challenging part of the pattern. The skill we’re practicing in this block is managing our piecing when the bulk of the unit is in the concave piece. Typically, the bulk of the fabric is in the convex unit. That’s not true in this block. If you’re making the simplified block, you’ll have less bulk in the concave unit to manage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/efa52302-cb36-4957-a97f-462dde4152a9/First+pin.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin I start by pinning at center with the concave piece on top. In this photo, I’ve flipped the unit over so the convex piece is on top, just to check that things…look aligned. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/dd87b7f5-ad1f-4119-a8e1-520560dca4b8/Three+pins.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin Here is what the unit looks like with three pins. I’ve long been an advocate for pinning to your heart’s content, but I will make an exception for this block. I preferred to use only three pins. I used multiple pins on one of these units and it did not turn out great (you’ll see in photos below). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/8845c4af-48f6-46bb-991c-70dcfd1c7064/IMG_7274.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin - Be prepared to sew slowly. I even shortened my stitch length to 1.8, just to help slow me down. I also felt like this gave me greater control over my piecing. In this photo, I’m actually being very forceful to the top unit, smashing it down to lay flat. You can see that the right edges of the top and bottom units aren’t very well aligned - make sure you pay attention to those edges! If I wasn’t trying to photograph myself, my right hand would be managing the fabric right under the needle, and my left hand would be managing the bulk of the fabric, like the next picture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f9be7c4e-097c-4fc5-8085-32853d455a47/IMG_7275.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin I want to highlight how much fabric there is to manage. I let the top concave unit bunch up and fold over as much as it wants to, as long as it is forward of the foot. You can see the seam between two arcs is quite high in the air. And see the yellow pin at the bottom? That’s the third pin on this unit - that’s how far the unit is tucked in under itself. I’m only concerned about the fabric immediately to the left of the foot. I want that to lay relatively flat. To help with this, I guide the fabric under the needle with my right hand (not pictured), and I use my left hand to help ease the bulk on the left. You can also see in the picture that barely an inch of the seam I’m sewing is visible. That’s due to the diameter of the circle we’re sewing and the large size of the concave unit. At times it felt like I was sewing blind because I could see so little of the seam ahead. But continue easing fabric and stitch slowly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b4596b40-b79e-4e6b-a0e6-5f9983f214da/IMG_7276.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin In this photo, I’ve reached the end of the curve - you can just see the bottom straight edge of my Template 3 unit (light blue fabric). I’ve eased the straight edge of the last arc to match the straight edge of the Template 3 unit. This helps make sure that when open the unit up, the bottom straight edge of the resulting half circle is even and straight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9336a3e3-87fe-4901-8ff2-e0f532ee7b6d/half+circles.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin Here are my two half circles. The one on the left is the one where I used more than three pins, and I think we can agree it is the less successful of the two. A quick note about pressing. I typically like to press outwards, but I also like nesting seams. I make a note in the pattern to consider alternating pressing directions of Template 3 . Pressing outwards makes the inner circle look sharp, but the seams in the patchwork make it bulky. Pressing inwards can really highlight how uneven the curved seam is, but helps reduce bulk. I’ll put up with these oddities for the nesting seams though. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/8e2eb6a1-4025-495f-9eda-dfa03e25bfd1/big+half+circle.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin When you’re ready to sew on Template 4, you can return to using your preferred number of pins. This curve is much easier to sew! The large concave unit practically snaps into place and requires much less fabric management. What I said above about pressing stands true here as well. There’s some give and take with pressing inwards and outwards. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/01f086e4-03d3-4dec-8872-c3c047c7d740/Final.jpg Learning Curves Blog - July: Bobbin We’re at the last seam! Because we’ve alternated the pressing directions, this seam should be pretty easy to align. The block is slightly oversized, so just trim to 12½" x 12½" and you’re done! https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/june-starzzle monthly 0.5 2024-06-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/133a672d-def7-46fa-9114-cafc93f63f65/Starzzle.jpg Learning Curves Blog - June: Starzzle - What is a block of the month without a sawtooth star block?! We’re celebrating the halfway point of the Learning Curves BOM with a block with no curves! I designed this quilt block to work like a puzzle piece so that if you love making it, you can tesselate several blocks to create some colorful sawtooth stars! The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Denim Cottage Soldier Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3ff96cf0-8f7a-462b-a2af-cbc3b5ee8e1d/ruler.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - June: Starzzle I think the trickiest part of the block pattern is trimming the unit from part 1 to 6" square. It’s not a very common ruler size, and using a 6½" x 6½" wasn’t immediately intuitive to me. In this image, you can see how I’ve aligned both 3" lines with the lines marked in part 1 step 6. From here, I trimmed from the right and top sides of the block before spinning it around, realigning the ruler and trimming the remaining two sides. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2c0b1321-8fc2-4d5e-b91d-25e0c988a11a/8-at-a-time.JPG Learning Curves Blog - June: Starzzle Once the block is trimmed, all that we have to do is follow the normal steps to make 8-at-a-time HSTs! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e0340c53-22e9-4059-9858-e4ed36612968/HSTs.JPG Learning Curves Blog - June: Starzzle You’ll notice that some of the HSTs have a bit of patchwork in the corners. These don’t interfere with the assembly, but can add some bulk to the seams. There is a bit of trimming room in the HSTs, but we can’t trim the bulky corner out completely. Just make sure you press everything thoroughly to counter the bulk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e56e88e4-eef4-469c-a0fa-e4003d1e738c/Trim.JPG Learning Curves Blog - June: Starzzle I did trim off the tiniest piece of patchwork at these seams; you can just barely tell that I’m snipping the threads of the seam that is fully within the seam allowance. Honestly, I don’t know that it made a huge difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1857b1d6-b6d2-4a9e-a37d-7e016f7cff4e/quarter+star.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - June: Starzzle The rest of the block is a pretty straightforward effort. Just pay attention to the orientation of the HST 1 and 2 units. As you start assembling the quarter star units, you can just start to see the sawtooth star taking shape! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d57b9a61-6bdf-4a0f-bc5e-9f14f2c937d6/Starzzle%2BTara3.jpg Learning Curves Blog - June: Starzzle I have to give Tara of @thewindycityquilter and owner of @fullmoonfabricco another shoutout! I love how her full quilt top came out! I’ve included lots of different ideas on how to build out a quilt top in this month’s bonus sheet, so don’t forget to take a peek at that. I can’t believe we’re halfway through the BOM! I’ve loved seeing everyone’s progress and watching skills grow. I can’t wait to see what you make this month! If you’re on Instagram, share your pictures using #learningcurvesbom and #starzzlequiltblock. Happy quilting! https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/may-bear-bloom monthly 0.5 2024-05-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/93685b04-fde5-498a-8a1f-7abfc34ab297/Bear+Bloom.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom If you haven’t picked up on the trend yet, I designed several of the Learning Curves blocks to celebrate some of our favorite traditional quilt blocks. The Bear Bloom block is my spin on the classic bear paw block. Throw in some quarter circles curves and fun patchwork, and we’ve got a perfectly modern block. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/63bd1cb3-6906-4f3d-b8c8-a6fcba5a2f2c/transfering+registration+marks.JPG Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom - This month, I’m skipping over how I cut out the blocks (I followed the cutting diagram in this month’s bonus sheet to use yardage instead of big scraps). Instead, I want to take a deeper dive into sewing quarter circle curves and share the things I like to pay attention to when I’m sewing. Transferring Registration Marks Remember that registration marks go on the right side of the convex units and on the wrong side of the concave units. This assumes that you sew with the concave unit on top. If you sew with the convex unit on top, you’ll want to reverse that. I find it easy enough to keep the template on top of the fabric unit and gently peel the edge up, just enough to flick the tip of my pen under the paper. Some quilters prefer to snip the registration marks with scissors or their rotary blade. I don’t recommend that with this pattern, which I’ll explain below. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/05b7e8db-f591-4489-b4b3-43a1b416b7af/snip+seam+allowance.JPG Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom - A brief note about the templates. I designed these templates to be oversized by ½", which means there is an extra ¼" on all sides. What does this mean for you? It means that the first and last ½" of the curved seam is actually a straight seam. In other words, the first ¼" of the curved seam is extra trimming room and the next ¼" is the seam allowance. The same is true at the end of the curved seam. So, as you pin and sew the ends of the curve seam, remember that you can sew in a straight line for ½" at both ends. Easing the Curve These quarter circle curves are on the smaller side, so I recommend making small snips in the seam allowance of the concave unit. Make sure they are well inside the seam allowance - the snip should be no more than ⅛". I like to make two snips on the outside of the registration marks, and two snips between each mark. You do not need to carry the snips to the edge of the unit as the first and last ½" are straight seams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/fd1d6cf5-04df-4fcd-8d38-df1d35fbbacb/visible+snips.JPG Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom To call back to why I don’t like snipping the registration marks on this pattern, it would be difficult to differentiate between a registration snip and a snip meant to ease the curve. Once I’ve made all these snips, you can see that I can almost pull the concave curve into a straight line. This will help ease the concave curve to meet the convex curve exactly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a19dda29-2871-4ef6-abb5-ed7b0f54beaa/pinned+unit.JPG Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom - Pinning the Curve Seam I like to start by pinning the middle and ends first. To match and pin the registration marks, you may feel like you are stretching the concave piece. This could be due to the accuracy of your cutting and registration marks. Even though the units are small, it’s hard to mess these up too much. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7b0cc0f1-afc8-435c-a9d2-2077b7966ed7/first+half+of+the+curve.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom - Top Four Things To Pay Attention To Once I’m at the machine, I have four factors I like to pay attention to. First, I like to test that the curves lay flat. With the small snips, see how neatly the fabric wants to snap into place? Second, I make sure to keep the edges of both pieces aligned. It’s really easy to let the edge of the top, concave piece pull back from the edge of the convex piece. If I let that top piece pull back, it would mean that I’m not catching the full seam allowance of the concave piece. That extra fabric not sewn into the seam allowance ends up in the body of the block and will either make the block the wrong size OR introduce extra fullness. Third, I make sure to sew with an actual ¼" seam allowance. Spend time setting up a sewing guide or learn the width of your presser foot. In this picture, I actually ended up adjusting my units a little to the right before sewing, Fourth, see all the excess fabric under my finger? That’s the extra fabric we’re constantly manipulating when sewing curves. I like to keep that excess fabric “pointed” towards the middle of the curve. That means for the first half of the curve, I manipulate the fabric so the folds are towards the middle. (Remember, don’t sew over a fold!) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/639aa4a8-13de-42fe-8c15-e328f49f53ad/second+half+of+the+curve.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom Once I reach the back half of the curve, I “point” the folds towards back towards the middle. I’ve found that this helps discourage the top concave piece from sneakily extending past the edge of the convex piece. This isn’t really a problem when we trim from all four sides of a quarter circle block. It’s mostly a problem when we trim from only the concave piece (as with the large quarter circle blocks in part 2 of the pattern). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1c869753-49c6-4076-8030-19365b52c0ce/Excess+fabric.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom This photo is an example of letting the concave unit stretch and extend slightly past the end of the convex piece. This particular example is slight and wouldn’t impact piecing, but greater deviations could have an impact on other patterns. Since Bear Bloom lets us trim from all four sides on the small quarter circles, I encourage you to experiment with pinning and piecing these units to see how accurately you can get these edges aligned. If you make a big mistake, you’ll be able to trim it right off! After all the practice with the small quarter circles, you’ll be prepared to accurately piece the large quarter circles. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1e5beafb-507d-4fde-bf33-03d237e8e01c/check+bottom+seam.JPG Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom This is a quarter circle curve that I am much happier with! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d72987eb-7d63-4de0-bbd6-e0c444848e69/check+seam+allowance.JPG Learning Curves Blog - May: Bear Bloom - Finally I like to double check my work and measure my seam allowance. This is really helpful for the first few blocks of a new curve template - it can help you get used to the template and the piecing, and make adjustments if things aren’t looking right. I didn’t take too many pictures of the assembly - I put a lot of exttra information about how to nest your seams (or not) in the bonus sheet this month. I love a well nested seam and assembled my block to nest everything! https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/april-fluttersome monthly 0.5 2024-04-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7352dbf6-c2fa-452f-8369-91d6b7c4e051/Fluttersome+Quilt+Block.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome - Is it a pickle dish block? An orange peel? The beginning of a lanyard friendship bracelet? Yes to all the above! This month, we’re moving on from quarter circles to practice orange peels. When I was designing the Fluttersome block, there were lots of upcoming patterns featuring butterflies, and I wanted to pull a little bit of all the winged whimsy into my own design! If you want all the whimsy, dive into your scraps and cut each template unit from a different fabric. There are so many possibilities to change up the color placement. Even switching up the orientation of the sub-blocks will give your finished block a totally unique look. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/73d4bb79-e0f0-4b66-b594-6304d16c2578/Cutting+Templates+2+and+3.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome - Cutting Templates 2 and 3 The Template 2 and 3 units can be cut out using your rotary blade, but through a couple experiments, I found that I preferred cutting these shapes out with scissors. That meant I needed to trace the shapes onto the fabric first. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f1e4e8ba-b125-4aac-93a9-2e3e219de115/Cutting+Templates+1+and+4.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome - Cutting Templates 1 and 4 As for Templates 1 and 4, I liked switching to my rotary blade. In this photo, you can see I’ve traced one Template 4 on the fabric; that’s only for your visual reference. For the rest of my units, I used the rotary blade to cut freehand around the template. If you are experienced with sewing orange peel quilts, you’ll recognize the layout of the units here. If you’re new to orange peel quilt patterns, you may be wondering why the Templates are arranged like this - two concave pieces facing each other and the orange peel in the middle. This is to minimize fabric waste. Cutting curves isn’t the most economic use of fabric, so we look for ways to minimize waste. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5ec658b9-a187-495f-938f-15413174eb27/Folding+the+Crease.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome - Creasing and Pinning Congratulations! Now that the cutting is complete, we’ve already done most of the work for this block. Seriously though, I think cutting the pieces takes more time and effort than piecing does. The pattern tells you to crease the units in the center. I prefer to fold the Template 1 units in half right sides together, and all remaining template units wrong sides together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9f51ebb3-17f6-4908-895d-b67e56f92c85/Matching+the+Crease.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome If I consistently crease the units this way, the concave curve will always settle nicely into the fold. I love pinning my curve units, so I will always recommend pinning to your heart’s content. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b7a1894c-5cf9-4201-a864-ef15a08967a7/Ruler.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome - Ensuring Pinning Accuracy I like to keep a small ruler nearby to help make sure I pin the ends at an accurate ¼". In this picture, you can see that I’ve aligned the ¼" line at the edge of the units. You can also see that I don’t have a perfect ¼" seam allowance because the intersection of the two units doesn’t fall perfectly at the edge of the ruler. In this example, I would shift the bottom unit up (or the top unit down) until the intersection meets at the ruler’s edge. Once that is aligned, I’ll pin to keep it in place. Then I’ll repeat this alignment at the other end of the units. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711728996949-AQC9528NFCGDZN4JVJMK/First+pinned+unit.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711729003621-HBQNPJD2I3NK0TZ5HDL4/First+sewn+unit.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711729007263-SW67G6UCJ82THLY6W5OT/First+pressed+unit.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711729895269-YX5FVO9A8BUYE8ETVGA4/Match+second+unit.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711730427149-JWLUA4MRGP9ND1Z82SEI/Pinning+second+unit.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711730437076-YW1ZMS5L0EYTT0Y46LDC/Pinned+second+unit.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711730440125-A5TDWGU2UWAZE9N1KA3E/Seam+second+unit.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711730437078-PR7YR7CUMOVXA658PPHU/Orange+Peel.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0f2c7311-837d-4fec-add3-b9a80fc7faf9/Template+4.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome - Template 4 We’ll crease all the remaining units at center again. I still crease the orange peel with right sides together and the Template 4 units wrong sides together. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711733769705-MEHVM976BN9RYLU4HKXQ/Template+4+1.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711733768638-E9EOIHKGULDTXHLINFT7/Template+4+2.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711733764048-R3E6TUHMEL94ZN3JRRMD/Template+4+3.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711733765155-D6DWMFT1PTVQZNZ9O8S7/Template+4+4.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711736659007-UYXFDNMQ8QEBRASTK932/Trimming.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711736662137-78B2A7GRGQ2F1Y6EBGNL/Trimming+2.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711736664851-KR0YJCTDBXVG3641DT4W/Trimming+3.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711737557201-YYC1E5YEAS01YNK1TE0V/Last+Step.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711737557616-627V9A7XXDBVDDWZ4KDX/Last+Step+2.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1711737560443-1TD5I0RHPB2ABVIAIJD6/Last+Step+3.JPG Learning Curves Blog - April: Fluttersome https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/march-startle monthly 0.5 2024-03-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/845d134a-b909-45ac-bea3-7bb9ee01d7f3/Startle+Quilt+Block.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle - This month, we’re getting a respite from curves. Instead, we’re working on HRTS. I know, I know. I think HRTs can be even more controversial than curves, but they are among my favorite quilt blocks. Startle was the last of the non-curve blocks I designed for the Learning Curves BOM. By then, I knew that I wanted all the blocks to either tesselate perfectly or look beautiful when laid out in a full quilt top. Startle is definitely in my top 3 when I consider what the block looks like when laid out as a full quilt top. The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabric A: Denim Fabric B: Cottage Fabric C: Soldier Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2cb5a134-77a7-45b0-85f6-267ad06cee68/HRT1.jpg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle - All About HRTs I know HRTs confuse some folks, so we’ll break down the construction a bit. First thing first. Don’t bother thinking about HSTs. They are different, the proportions are different, the construction is different and the trimming is different. Put them out of your mind completely. If you try and compare making HRTS to HSTs, you’ll only be disappointed. There are left and right leaning HRTs. One cannot be exchanged for the other. The Startle block pattern uses both, and constructs them with the 2-at-a-time HRT method. To help keep straight in your mind which HRT you are making, remember that whatever direction you draw your line, your final HRT with run in the opposite direction. Make sure you draw half the lines in one direction, and half in the opposite direction. I like to put half aside so I don’t get my HRTS confused. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/092a42b9-f85c-4394-835e-50164feb85b9/HRT2.jpg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle - Right Leaning HRTs We start by drawing a diagonal line on the wrong side of a Fabric C rectangle. From here, we align the Fabric C rectangle with a Fabric A rectangle. Don’t align like you would if you were just piecing two rectangles together. You want the drawn line to run diagonally on the Fabric A rectangle. Once everything is aligned, I recommend using at least one pin. You will be sewing on a bias angle and you’ll want to prevent too much shifting. I use just one pin somewhere in the middle of the drawn line. I recommend using a very scant seam allowance to sew ¼" away on both sides of the line. The more scant the seam, the more trimming room you will have later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0fc097d1-f119-46da-aad5-bb066a299800/HRT3.jpg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle - After you’ve sewn down both sides of the line, cut along the drawn line and press. The HRTs can be pressed open; the pattern pressing directions indicate to press to the side, but only so the HRT seams nest in final construction. You can see in this picture what I mean when I say the initial drawn line runs opposite to the final direction of your HRT. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5ca02ec9-6096-439a-a919-bf22c43871f5/Ruler1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle - Next up is trimming. Before talking about the ruler, I invite you to look closely at this picture. See how little room for trimming there is along the long vertical sides of the HRT? It’s worth repeating that the more scant your seam allowance is, the more trimming room you will have. The pattern tells you where to mark your points. I use the nearest marker I can find, but a sharpie would 1) work, 2) be very visible and 3) come off with a little rubbing alcohol. I like to add tape marks to the ruler at 2" and 3 ½" lines. I actually put the tape about ⅛" away, so I can clearly see the lines I’m interested in. Align the block for trimming by making sure the diagonal line falls on the marked points. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c4f732d6-75f8-4e0a-a4ed-167983af8e64/Ruler2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle - Generally, I’m not too picky about which rulers I use. But for HRTs I don’t like to use rulers with ⅛" lines, like this ruler. I think the lines make it difficult to see the block. I prefer to use blocks like the previous picture, with just ¼" lines. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1709003429506-SNBQGTC0PQMHWKFZHAPD/left+leaning.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1709003440035-CFSSNMEFKX4HGLTWRD42/Ruler3.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - March: Startle https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/february-formal-gardens monthly 0.5 2024-02-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c84697c0-aa9c-479a-acaa-53f5d548c047/Formal+Gardens+RBD.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens February’s block is…Formal Gardens. I designed this block as a play on the traditional log cabin block. It’s not assembled like a log cabin, but the fabric placement is reminiscent of one. The alternating fabric, plus the addition of curves makes me dream of formal French gardens, with perfectly manicured greenery and flowers. This month, we’re sticking with the quarter circle, but the diameter of the circle is smaller. The February bonus sheet walks you through practicing these smaller curves. If you take your time, and spend a minute trying out the test curves, you’ll have no problem stitching up the Formal Gardens quilt block. The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabric A: Denim Fabric B: Cottage Fabric C: Soldier Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/a69492ff-b854-44d9-a038-17a10f560231/Trim+convex.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens - This is the second time this BOM that you’ve seen the instruction to shorten your stitch length. When there are pieced units that get trimmed with a curved template, the shorter stitch length helps ensure that the seams don’t pop open while manipulating the curves. For the Roxy Wave in January, we pressed these pieces-that-eventually-become-curves to the side. That was so the nine patch unit seams would nest. Trying to nest the seams in the Formal Gardens block would be a bit more complicated, so we’re pressing these pieces-that-eventually-become-curves open. This will also reduce bulk in the seam allowance. I think cutting the convex pieces (Template 1) from the strip sets is the most complicated part of this pattern. The orientation of the strip set matters and the orientation of the template matters. In this picture, I replicated the pattern illustration with 8 template pieces, just to make sure you can picture how these turn out. Just take your time and reference the diagrams to make sure you’re cutting correctly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7ca28c58-1eb5-46e5-a597-43a63964cc04/Creasing+center.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens - This month’s templates do not have registration marks. To find the center, you will fold the curve units in half and lightly crease them. I like to fold the convex units in half RST and the concave units in half wrong sides together. This way, when I pin them RST, the crease of the concave unit nestles nicely into the crease of the convex unit. If you want, you can crease these with a hot iron. I like to crease it by pressing it with my lips (whatever works, right!?). I don’t suggest using your fingernails, as this pressure could warp the exposed bias edge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/56533d85-1782-4fff-ab26-9ab96a512ebf/snip+seam+allowance.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens - I noted this above, but it’s worth reiterating. Formal Garden’s curves are quite smaller than the Roxy Wave curves. As the size of the curve decreases, the difficulty increases. Don’t stress about the increased difficulty - this whole BOM is about practicing new skills. If you haven’t tried a practice curve as highlighted in the bonus sheet yet, I suggest pausing now to try. If you find you’re having a hard time, try making small snips around the concave curve. The cuts need to stay inside the seam allowance, and can be as small as ⅛", spaced as close as ¼" apart. The more snips you make in the curve, the easier it will be to encourage the curve into the right place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/367d2d6c-5533-496c-bc7d-efa7293bb14c/pinned+curve.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens - This is what a pinned and snipped curve will look like. Ultimately, I used three pins, not five. At this point, we find ourselves facing another difference between the Roxy Wave templates and the Formal Garden templates. In January, the concave and convex units met exactly at the ends. This month, the concave template is designed to extend ⅛" beyond the convex unit. If you’re a stickler, you could mark in ⅛" from the ends and pin the mark at the end of the convex unit. But the point of this type of template is that everything should workout just fine if you eyeball it. (And if you don’t like this approach, you could trim ⅛" off the ends of the concave template and the ends will meet exactly.) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d2e750db-f479-47be-b2cd-25ff57427883/Pressed+seams.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens - This may be controversial, but I suggest pressing these quarter circle unit seams open. This reduces bulk in some key areas of the block. Alternately, you could press as follows for nesting seams: curve A, in curve B, out curve C, in curve D, out You can just see here, but wherever there was bulk or a wrinkle in the seam allowance of the convex piece, I clipped the seam allowance to help it lay flat. I will continue to suggest leaving these under a heavy object for at least 20 minutes before trimming to size. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/fd6c4547-955a-4ceb-9ec3-350aab88c79f/Trim+curve.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens - Remember to align the ¼" seam allowance mark with the seam of the curve when you trim the quarter circle units. Only trim from the concave unit. Don’t forget to trim the ⅛" bit that extends beyond the convex unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1705885307512-JZSEWCAKQR8W32YLPWLD/Sewing+curves+together+1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1705885311356-IYLVXJNCV4T969YHNL2C/Sewing+curves+together+2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1705885315112-GOMB7RHNAZMDUJOB3DEW/Sewing+curves+together+3.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - February: Formal Gardens https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/january-roxy-wave monthly 0.5 2024-01-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c31f76df-7b75-4f79-b52c-3ec6b52e27f0/Roxy+Wave+Block.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - January: Roxy Wave - And January’s block is… Roxy Wave! This block reminds me of Southern California boardwalks, summer time and Vans slip on shoes. There’s something casual and friendly about this design that I just love. The seamless checkerboard design across three quarter circle blocks brings so much visual interest for very little work. If you’ve never sewn curves before, make sure you reference the bonus sheet - it it some tips on how to practice sewing curves with the templates before committing to the full block. The fabrics I’m using are Bee Cross Stitch, designed by Lori Holt for Riley Blake Designs. Fabric A: Denim Fabric B: Cottage Fabric C: Soldier Fabrics were provided by Riley Blake Designs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/eaa2481b-ca7f-42cb-add1-16e1ecbee7f8/Roxy+Wave+Template+1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - January: Roxy Wave - Cutting Out Convex Units There are a couple different ways to cut curve units using templates. The pattern notes that the template and fabric should both be right sides up. This picture shows my preferred method for convex shapes. I like to secure the template with a handful of large pattern weights and cut along the convex curve with a rotary blade, following the edge of the paper template. If you don’t have pattern weights, anything large and heavy that doesn’t block your rotary blade will do. Before I got pattern weights, I used clear tape to secure the template to the fabric (just make sure to remove all tape from the fabric before ironing). If you haven’t checked it out yet, read through my list of recommended sewing tools to keep on hand during the Learning Curves BOM. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/104a37fc-188b-4093-b7bc-41205bc33536/Roxy+Wave+Template+2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - January: Roxy Wave - Cutting Out Concave Units Once you have the convex unit cut, you can move on to the concave unit. I like to cut these differently. I prefer to trace the concave template onto the fabric using an air soluble pen. Then I use a rotary blade and ruler to cut the straight edges before using scissors to cut the curve. If the curve is large enough, I’ll use rotary blade. But I dislike cutting along the concave paper template with a rotary blade, as I feel the paper gets in the way of the blade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/98aed80b-0d89-44cc-91dd-0a679011a76e/Roxy+Wave+Nine+Patch+Units.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - January: Roxy Wave - Assembling Nine Patch Units Assembling the nine patch units is a pretty straightforward process. Follow the pressing directions if you like nesting seam; otherwise, you can press to your preference. The incomplete 9 patch unit requires a little more attention. To make sure I’m sewing the units in the correct orientation, I like to lay out the units starting with the corner 2¾" square. This way, as you lay out the 2½" x 2¾" rectangles, you can be sure they are aligned along the 2¾" dimension. In this picture, one of the rectangles is incorrectly laid out. Can you tell which one? The seam at the interior corner may feel a bit funny, but as long as you press towards fabric B, it won’t be an issue. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7328bb71-cd89-42b6-8344-4c049ebf9627/Roxy+Wave+Quarter+circle+curves.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - January: Roxy Wave - Nine Patch Units and Curve Templates Next up, we’re cutting convex and concave curve units from the nine patch units. I encourage you to try two things. First, use both cutting methods described above to see which you prefer. This block will be a little bumpy along the seam allowances, so move slowly and carefully. Second, leave the nine patch units under something heavy for at least 20 minutes before trimming. This helps flatten the seams and makes sure the fabric is relaxed so it doesn’t shrink back the tiniest bit after cutting. I don’t know that this shrinking is an actual thing, but I feel like my blocks are just that much nicer if I let them flatten and relax under a clapper. Make sure to transfer the registration marks to the cut units. The marks should go on the right side of the convex units, and the wrong side of the concave units. This is so you can see the marks on both units while sewing, assuming that you sew with the concave unit on top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/444e33ea-8fd2-4a73-a446-8dc70cb94180/Roxy+Wave+Pinned+units.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - January: Roxy Wave - Pinning Convex and Concave Units The Roxy Wave pattern assumes that you have some familiarity with sewing curves, but in case you’ve never seen a pinned quarter circle unit before, here’s what the Roxy Wave quarter circle unit looks like. It looks uncomfortable, it feels odd and you might think that the units don’t actually fit and what are we even doing here? Well, I promise you those feelings are ok, and trust that the units to actually fit together. I suggest pinning the units at the middle, ends and both registration marks. If you’re brand new to curves, I encourage adding more pins. As you grow more comfortable, you can use fewer pins, but more pins means spending less time adjusting the fabric under the needle. Sew with the concave unit on top, and mind the direction of the seam allowances. The process looks exactly the same for the unit with the nine patch in the concave unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c352588d-511c-4d6b-b3d1-3308d7c855be/Roxy+Wave+Final+Assembly+.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - January: Roxy Wave - Trimming Quarter Circles and Final Assembly Now it’s time to trim the quarter circle units. The templates are designed so that you only have to trim from the concave piece. The pattern also has guidance on how to align the seams of the nine patch units with the ruler - this will ensure that the seams meet and nest perfectly in the next step… Which is final assembly! This part is so rewarding. All the blocks should be the same size and all the seams should nest! After you’ve sewn and pressed everything, leave the block under a heavy book for a while to really flatten those seams. https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/sewing-curves-101 monthly 0.5 2023-12-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/8b02e549-feff-4279-bcf0-a04c59deab5b/1+Convex+and+concave+units.jpg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - Anatomy of a quarter circle There are two units for these curves. The green fabric is the convex unit and the white fabric is the concave unit. The best way to keep these straight is to remember that the CONCAVE unit looks like a CAVE ceiling. You generally want to cut the units so the straight grain of the fabric is running along the straight edges of the templates. This way, the bias is only exposed on the curved edges. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/858d5b57-e7e9-41b0-a47a-1f0307dafe0c/RST.png Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - Right Sides Together The directions for each template you come across will differ. Some will have you fold the units half and match at center. Others will have registration marks you can transfer to the units. My template has registration marks, so I transferred the convex marks to the right side of the unit, and the concave marks to the wrong side of the unit. I like to sew my curves with the concave unit on top. So I start by flipping the concave unit over and matching the curves at the middle. I make sure that the concave piece is nicely aligned like the photo on the left. The wonky alignment on the right makes my skin itch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/410eb7e7-9d3a-4cb0-ad81-ac2abe652f39/Pins.png Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - Pinning This is perhaps the most controversial part of sewing curves. To pin or not to pin. I pin. When I first starting learning to sew curves, I used an abundance of pins. Now I use fewer and tend to pin only at both ends and center. But for small curves, like quarter circles that finish smaller than 4" x 4", I use more pins. The smaller the unit, the more pins I use. The advantage of using more pins is that you get all the fussing with the fabric done before you even get to the machine. The disadvantage is that you spend more time pinning. The advantage of fewer pins is that you spend less time pinning. The disadvantage is that you spend more time fiddling with the fabric under the needle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5653a898-d0f1-416d-b27d-baa37a703707/6+Pinned+corners.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - My favorite tip I don’t like to align the edges of my units exactly. After lots.and.lots.and.lots of experimenting, I like my curve edges to look like this picture. The corner edge of the concave piece extends just slightly outwards and the fabrics meet exactly at the ¼" mark. I make both ends of the concave unit look like this. This is a skill I’ve developed with lots of practice, and now I can eyeball when this alignment looks right to me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/91617aa1-8fd6-49b0-86cd-14b2edd6b205/7+at+the+machine.jpg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - At the Machine Your goal as you sew around the curve is to keep the fabric under the needle flat, and keep all the fabric fullness to the left of the needle. These next few pictures show how the fullness will pucker and how I sometimes manipulate the fabric to make the edges flat. You get to choose if you sew over your pins or not. The more beginner you are, the more slowly you may want to sew. Take a few stitches and readjust. Sew a bit more, then readjust. Sew and adjust. Sew and adjust. And on till you hit the end of the unit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1700859254874-TXKENJEQXDLQGKBJBCFW/8+Fullness+1.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1700859270230-K9HZZSDWB8QMWZVYY633/8+Fullness+2.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1700859353221-E365HAEP6NQL1GHS3WH4/8+Fullness+3.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1700859359263-94VJ7RCZ0HDFM8SPHJIP/8+Fullness+4.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/859737ae-a47a-4e67-b11b-008e55c5856a/9+Sewn+Corner+closeup.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - Setting the Seam If you’ve tried my favorite tip, the sewn curve will look like this. The edges are slightly wonky but the seam intersects both at the ¼" mark. Now it’s time to set the seam (stamp the seam with a hot iron). This step helps the thread sink into the fabric. If you’re a stickler for flat seams, you don’t want to skip this step. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2bff8aec-a532-4f73-924d-9cb251f01eaa/seams.png Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - Pressing Every pattern will have different pressing directions. Which way I like to press depends what my end purpose. I love nesting seams, so I’ll alternate pressing inwards and outwards if it means the seams will nest. If there is no opportunity for nesting seams, I’ll press open. I’ve also been known to make liberal use of water and steam. If the block has turned out lumpy, with lots of fullness, I excessively spray the block and manipulate the fabric to get it to lay as flat as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/dde090fa-a728-4953-b88b-31dcea55e15a/11+Trimming.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Sewing Curves 101 - Trimming Before trimming, I like to leave my blocks under a tailor’s clapper or a heavy book for at least 20 minutes, but overnight if I have the patience. This way, I know all the fibers are relaxed and won’t shift or shrink after trimming. The template I’m using only requires trimming from the concave unit. Whatever your template requires, it’s most likely that you’ll need to leave ¼" of seam allowance at the ends of the unit. Identify the appropriate ¼" mark on your ruler and align those marks with the curved seam. Before you jump into your first big project or pattern, try a test block or two using whatever templates come with the pattern. These can always be incorporated into the quilt backing or made into a wall hanging or pillow. Hopefully some of these tips will help you during the Learning Curves BOM and all future curve blocks! https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/choosing-fabrics monthly 0.5 2023-12-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/78f1406b-f26e-4c98-8901-1e95e3467d89/Monochrome.png Learning Curves Blog - Choosing Fabrics - I think using a monochrome color palette is perfect for sampler quilts like this. It helps tie all the blocks together and gives the quilt top a cohesive look. I prefer to use the darkest color for Fabric A, the lightest color for Fabric B, and the medium color for the background fabric. These fabrics are Bee Cross Stitch for Riley Blake Designs in Denim (A), Cottage (B) and Soldier (C). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/27063484-e742-4f42-a76a-5da2ed717938/Light+Backgroun.png Learning Curves Blog - Choosing Fabrics - If you prefer a light background, you’ll just want to make sure that Fabric B is still lighter than Fabric A. There should be enough contrast between Fabric B and the background fabric that the designs still pop. These fabrics are Bee Cross Stitch in Jade (A), Cottage (B) and Cloud Jade (C). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/c4043335-eead-4230-ba85-def5dfb165a0/Multicolor.png Learning Curves Blog - Choosing Fabrics - Alternately, you can use a variety of colors! The logic of using a dark color for Fabric A, a light color for Fabric B, and a medium color for the background still stands. You can even use two different values of the same color for Fabric A and B for a cohesive look. The fabrics here are Bee Cross Stitch in Jazzberry (A), Coral (B) and Soldier (C). https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-blog/learning-curves-bom-helpful-tools monthly 0.5 2023-11-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b3740cd5-75ee-43e7-a708-52cb2a0951a5/Fluttersome+5.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Welcome to the Learning Curves BOM Just like you can combine HSTs into endless combinations, a curve template can be designed in many different ways. Each pattern in the Learning Curves BOM uses a slightly different template. Some months, the templates use registration marks. Some months, we'll trim curve units from all four sides of the block. Other months, we'll only trim from two sides of the block. Some patterns use quarter circle curves, others use half circles or inset circles. I really mean it when I say you'll learn so much about sewing curves! With all these different templates and piecing methods, you'll gain confidence in your seams and know exactly how to tackle every kind of template. I want to run through some quilting notions and tools that will help you in the Learning Curves BOM. Beyond the regular quilting tools (sewing machine, iron, rulers, thread and fabric that you love), having these tools in arm's reach will serve you well over the next twelve months. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/7823afae-b857-401c-81a7-e7c99e5f0919/Learning+Curves+BOM+tools.jpeg Learning Curves Blog - Welcome to the Learning Curves BOM Printer: It may be a little obvious, but you'll need access to a printer to use the templates. When you print the patterns, make sure that you're printing to 100% scale and always check the 1" test box. If you don't have quick access to a home printer, I've had really good experiences sending files to UPS for printing (remember to bring a ruler with you to check the test square! You can always ask them to reprint the file if it didn't print properly). Rotary blade or scissors: It's the new year! Treat yourself to a fresh blade or get your scissors sharpened! I recommend a 45mm or 60 mm blade for cutting out curves. Smaller blades feel too small to me, but I encourage you to experiment to see which size you prefer. Tape: Some of the Learning Curves templates require that multiple pieces are taped together. I've also been known to tape the templates to my fabric to cut out my units. Pattern weights: I use pattern weights to make sure the templates don't move while I'm cutting my fabric. I don't use anything fancy - I went to the hardware store and picked up a handful of the biggest washers I could find. Fabric pen or other marking tool: Sometimes I like to trace the templates directly onto my fabric. A handful of the Learning Curves pattern templates use registration marks - a fine tip marking tool is useful to transfer these. https://mijahandmade.com/blog-2 daily 0.75 2026-10-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ccd10f6e-79b4-48a7-bbd2-2bbd59387f3d/Star+Border.png https://mijahandmade.com/blog-2/scrappy-bats monthly 0.5 2025-09-01 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/535edaff-c6f8-41ee-94b5-bf47f7af02f8/ScrappyBatOrange.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats I can’t believe this is the last scrappy critter block of the Broom Cupboard quilt. I’m pretty happy with how these turned out! After the scrappy mice mishap, I trusted my original, scrappy vision for the bats. And! I broke my rule about unique colors in each block. I’ve already used these oranges in a star block. In my other bat block, I used fuchsias that I’ve previously used in an owl block. I only made two bat blocks (more on that later) so I didn’t bother with a third color way. The bonus scrappy cutting guide still has information for all three blocks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1756173230586-I0R7DUFIVN5QZMGWNOWW/ScrappyBatEyes1.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1756173230963-G70EQA8F7ZVO6G03EWL0/ScrappyBatEyes2.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1756173237813-KP6GQZ6H4EB8R4G64ZGK/ScrappyBatEyes3.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/514aae29-8d7e-44a5-a925-6a2828561b52/ScrappyBatUnits1.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats There are no changes to the stitch and flip units. Make the below quantity of each stitch and flip unit for each unique block: 3: B4/A4/B4 1: Left A5/B5 1: Right A5/B5 2: A5/B5/A5 1: Left B4/A3 1: Right B4/A3 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d45c028b-3416-4a63-b2c1-3ab538e361dd/ScrappyBatUnits3.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats Doing the math on the number of stitch and flip units to make is probably the hardest part of the scrappy approach. But I just did the math for you, so you’re all set. The second hardest part is sewing together the units in the correct orientation. Always check the pattern before and after you sew two units together. It may feel like you’re moving slowly, but it’s better than seam ripping your blocks after the whole thing is sewn up. Ask me how I know! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/129e4a75-947b-44fa-b83b-0c46dca5a26d/ScrappyBatPurple.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats I mentioned above that I only made two bat blocks. I haven’t gone out of my way to point this out, but since all the owl, bat and will o’ the wisp blocks finish at 12" x 12", you can swap them out for any other block that finishes at the same size. The same for the stars or mice blocks - any block that finishes at 12" x 10" can be swapped in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d45a3e93-b327-40bf-83f3-3372d5775655/Block+Widow.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Bats To that end, I designed this Block Widow spider to take the place of one of the bats! I may or may not be working my mouse tail off to get the Block Widow pattern ready for release soon. It will include four sizes: a 12" x 12" block a 24" x 24" pillow a 36" x 36" baby a 60" x 60" throw https://mijahandmade.com/blog-2/scrappy-mice monthly 0.5 2025-08-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1765c6e3-8aa3-40e2-a043-eb082c65b3ce/ScrappyMiceLayout.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Mice I feel like the first thing I need to admit about the scrappy mice block is that I panicked. I wanted to maintain the scrappy patchwork approach that I used in the other blocks (lots of fabrics in similar colors and values). But I found myself running up against two completely arbitrary rules. The first, as I mentioned in the star block blog post, I want all the blocks to be unique colors. The second was that I was really tied to making the mice blocks from real mice colors - white, brown or gray. Why? I don’t know. I made a green owl block for crying out loud. Why this rule came into play now, I will never know. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/482425f1-d403-44f8-85ee-6d1f8edd166d/ScrappyMiceGray.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Mice I made one block with the few grays I do have and I did not like it. So much so that I apparently threw the block into another dimension and now I can’t find it. I had to grab a screenshot of a video I shared to Instagram for this picture. The variety of color and large scale prints did not support the design, so I panicked and abandoned the idea of a patchwork mouse in favor of using just one fabric per mouse body. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1756061095708-TPORA25MWNU0CKA2GCLH/ScrappyMice1.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Mice https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1756061094278-BDAZ0RD482EXWHDJW0KL/ScrappyMice2.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Mice https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1756061105915-2KOCRQ7DXOKQLOC6YT07/ScrappyMice3.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Mice https://mijahandmade.com/blog-2/scrappy-stars monthly 0.5 2025-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/2388f5c1-2d2f-47b9-afb6-431e3e9227d6/BroomStar1.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Stars This block should have been a very straightforward scrappy make. But of course, I had to try and get fancy with the pattern. But first, I just want to say how happy I am with this trio of colors! These blocks are so bright and shiny, they could be shooting stars! Every time I pick colors for a block, I have been trying to make them unique from other blocks I’ve made. I’m about to run out of unique color combinations, so we’ll see how long that lasts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3b1d1957-899a-4e03-a3ed-be06b6236807/BroomStarYellow.jpg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Stars I knew I wanted to make really bright stars. I started these blocks wondering if I could add a little something to make them glow. My solution was to try adding a white hot center to the star. I would use fabrics with similar accent colors on a white ground, in a teeny-tiny, center sawtooth star pattern. It took forever. It required a bunch of 1⅜" squares, finicky sewing, lots of unpicking seams to make sure the unit turned out the corrected size… While the block is cute, it was a pain to put together. And I don’t think it glows in the way I was hoping for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/84ad6e75-0c14-497f-bb1c-f6dffd9d0f71/BroomStar4.jpg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Stars I decided to make my life easy by changing course to a simple four patch. I’ll keep the yellow star in the quilt, and it will be like a little easter egg to spot in the top. The remaining two blocks, I just replaced the center A2/B2/C2 square with four additional A1/B1/C1 squares. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/326736ab-a04b-4e9b-9f10-17c55214b7b6/BroomStarScrapOrganization.jpg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Stars I made a simple four patch to replace the center unit, and followed the pattern directions to assemble the flying geese. I used these blocks to experiment with a different pressing orientation. The pattern tells you to press the seams open. In these blocks, I pressed towards the background fabric. I found this helped make my points sharp, especially the very tip of the flying geese units. Because the fabric is pressed towards the black point of the flying geese, the point is quite proud of the fabric, making it look extra sharp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/74fdf187-e383-48bd-9e65-f42b4686026c/BroomStar3.jpg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Stars They aren’t too hard to stitch up and I had a blast picking fabrics for them. These blocks were always meant to provide a respite from the more intricate blocks. Up next …the mice! https://mijahandmade.com/blog-2/scrappy-owls monthly 0.5 2025-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9158693f-eeb1-4ad2-99e6-4a776bd548db/BroomOwlScrappy.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls What? Who could believe these scrappy owls would turn out as cute as this? I was a little concerned the design would get swallowed by the various fabrics, but I made some smart decisions about the fabric colors to keep the design shining through. Below, I walk you through some of the those decisions so you can replicate this scrappy version. Keep reading to download an updated cutting chart that will help you track your scrappy units. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1eb93d73-7866-40c8-ba39-457e91c4b1a2/BroomOwlScrappyFabric.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls - Picking Fabrics I wanted each of the three owls to have different color stories. One with a very saturated fuchsia for the crown and wings, and light pinks in the body. The second with bright blues in the crown and wings, with a light grey-blue in the body. And the third with spring greens in the crown and wings, and a muted blue-green for the body. I recommend picking fabrics in the same color families, with lots of contrast in value (as opposed to lots of contrast in color). Picking fabrics with enough contrast in value will help make sure the owl design shines through. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/666072a0-2b61-4106-b081-f0d6e3b4f0b3/BroomOwlFabricOrganization.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls - Fabric Organization After I picked my fabrics, I cut all the units and organized them with my emotional support paper plates. To help you make your own scrappy version, I’ve created a new cutting guide, complete with new sizes to account for the different eye units (more on that below) and check boxes so you can mark off each unit as you cut it. After cutting, I found it easiest to make one owl block at a time, rather than trying to make them all at once. This just helped me keep all my units and pieces straight in my mind. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1de7a610-65ef-440b-b1e9-97288a19f909/BroomOwlScrappyEyes.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls - Eye Units In the original pattern, all three eye units are subcut from one strip pieced unit. Because the scrappy owls have different fabrics in the body, I needed to make the eye units individually. I’ve updated the height dimensions of these units in the new, scrappy cutting chart so you can do the same. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1536b6d9-ff4c-42aa-98ad-64c2624891c7/BroomOwlScrappyEyesTrimming.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls - Trimming Eye Units The updated dimensions still give you a tiny bit of trimming room. Don’t forget this step, or your units will be too tall for final block assembly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/3f9a6b9c-f9f7-46ce-b7ba-9b829d01204d/BroomOwlScrappyTriangles.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls - Equilateral Triangles Part 2 of the pattern directs you to make a variety of units for the equilateral triangles. Follow steps 1, 2, and 3 as written. In step 4, use three B1 squares from each light body fabric. (See the bottom row of units in this picture). In step 5, use three B1 squares from each light body fabric as well. (See the top row of units in this picture). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/e6c591ee-1206-4e57-bc1f-9ba8a61d9beb/BroomOwlScrappyBeakAndFeet.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls If you want even more detailed information on how to make these equilateral triangles, check out this blog post. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/91093cf9-c709-4c49-8266-23912a7f0bc9/BroomOwlScrappyAccent.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls - Stitch and Flip Part 3 of the pattern is all about the stitch and flip units. I found it easiest to start by drawing the diagonal line on all the D1 squares at the beginning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f1a7c911-2c0d-42ee-9211-efa66056af07/BroomOwlScrappyAssembly.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Owls - Owl Assembly From here, assembly is a hoot! Just follow the assembly diagrams on pages 5 and 6. https://mijahandmade.com/blog-2/scrappy-will-o-the-wisps monthly 0.5 2025-07-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d0503f56-3b6b-436f-88d9-fe684a202920/Broom+Cupboard+Will+o+the+wisp+blocks Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Will o’ the Wisps I didn’t know it was possible to love the Broom Cupboard quilt more than I already do, but these scrappy will o’ the wisp blocks have stolen my heart. Cutting the units for these blocks is a little more complicated than the brooms. Hopefully my notes below serve you well if you want to make similar, scrappy blocks! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/0eb24f3f-c4df-4b39-a3b0-2c010a601953/Halloween+black+fabric+pull Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Will o’ the Wisps - Background Units I started by cutting several 6" x WOF strips of background fabric. Cutting the units from these strips is much more manageable than trying to cut from yardage. I chose 6" just because I have a 6" x 24" ruler. I randomly cut three or four background units from one fabric, then moved on to the next fabric. I also have a collection of 2½" x 2½" scraps that I cut down to size for the D7 units. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1ea675cb-5f33-43fb-b2f8-58375770f21f/Wow+accent+pull.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Will o’ the Wisps - Accent Units I spent a good amount of time sorting through my scraps to find three groups of fabric, each with very similar colors. I have lots of Ruby Star Society scraps, which is helpful because they’re very consistent with the colors they use. I settled on pink, reddish-orange, and purple. Similar to the background units, I randomly cut one or two units from each fabric. This seemed like the best way to introduce lots of scrappiness. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/07bf794e-f97b-4f90-ab35-79619db4f56b/WOW+accent.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Will o’ the Wisps - Fabric Organization I used a fabric pen to write the unit label on the wrong side of each piece, and paper plates to keep all the fabrics organized by color. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/b9831d03-42ca-4c97-b02c-df80f064634d/Patchwork+Blocks+Broom+Cupboard+Quilt Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Will o’ the Wisps - Assembly After cutting the scrappy units, you can just follow the pattern to assembly the blocks! https://mijahandmade.com/blog-2/scrappy-brooms monthly 0.5 2025-07-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/47e046be-df57-46e9-81c8-ea7a28445721/Broom1.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Brooms - A Scrappy Broom Cupboard Quilt I’m so excited to jump into making a scrappy version of the Broom Cupboard quilt! I want the critters and background fabric to be incredibly scrappy, so I don’t have total fabric requirements to share. Instead, the goal of this project is to work through my stash and to play with patchwork! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/8aa2b6f5-0d24-42e7-8cc5-f43a7e5e2605/BroomCupboardBackground+Fabric.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Brooms - Background Fabrics To start, I have seven ¾ yard cuts of background fabric, plus some odd scraps from my scrap bin. The yardage and scraps I’ve collected equals 5½ yards of fabric, which is more fabric than required to complete the original version of the quilt. I’m erring on the generous side as I’m not sure how the scrappy background will impact the fabric requirements. If you want to play along with me, you could also try ten ½ yard cuts of background fabric, or any combination of cuts that add up to at least 5 yards. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/85b653c3-7551-4081-8a08-2e3c84341d88/Broom2.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Brooms - Accent Fabrics I’ve been collecting layer cakes and scrap packs for a while, and I hope to use those fabrics to make all the critter blocks. My only criteria will be that the accent fabrics have enough contrast with the background fabric. But since I’m using black background fabrics, that shouldn’t be too hard to pull off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/5879bfc4-66eb-48f1-aee8-e72d71e06bae/BroomCupboard+HSTs.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Brooms - Cutting Accent Fabrics The brooms require 24 HSTs, so I used the two-at-a-time HST method to incorporate a large variety of prints, instead of the method outlined in Part 1 of the pattern. I replaced all the A1 and B1 units with: 12: 3" squares of various background fabric 12: 3" squares of various accent fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/61b75f29-a4b6-4356-a98d-a3ba099e172f/BroomCupboardHRTs.jpeg Broom Cupboard Scrappy Blog - Scrappy Brooms I thought the “body” of the broom would look a little off if it was scrappy, so I’ve kept them to be made of one fabric. Remember, these units use one left leaning HRT and one right leaning HRT - these are not interchangeable like HSTs. So I cut one left leaning and one right leaning HRT from each fabric. It’s not a very efficient use of fabric, but I’d rather use the fabric than keep it tucked away. You can make a template OR: Use a marking tool to draw a 12" x 6" rectangle on your fabric. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Cut out one HRT shape. Repeat the first two steps, this time, drawing the line in the opposite direction. Cut out the second HRT shape. https://mijahandmade.com/home daily 1.0 2026-07-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/cac450a5-ff47-4182-aeaf-33d08d67e6ff/Lillette+13.jpeg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d5344af4-a0e0-4e71-80c3-441639a8e9f5/7+Ways+to+Make+a+Modern+Quilt+Color+Palette https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9e53d350-2462-4ae2-ac80-38f1ff83e961/Lillette+Steal+My+Quilting+Design.png https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/9bc45a06-36e3-40d1-b604-fb70ae8d3bdd/Halloween+patchwork+perfection+with+the+Pump+Queen+Block https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/18cf5ade-fb30-455f-8bb9-79315a86e4f5/Headshot.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1674673027796-1GTID7EAA839UV5AQRG9/Packing+Cube+1.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f597d863-c296-4846-afc1-58756e9ade63/Bow+Big+Stitch+Binding.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/303a8826-7d9e-4f09-8c4c-0cd3f30f8798/webbing8.jpeg https://mijahandmade.com/downtown-neighbor daily 0.75 2025-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1642895721035-3X1YXODQXOFIIRKDXGTI/IMG_4707.jpeg Downtown Neighbor - Hello Neighbor! Do yourself a favor and grab the Downtown Neighbor quilt pattern! This quilt top reminds me of downtown apartment living, where each window tells a different story about the people who live there. Quilting is no different, with each quilt we make telling another story about our craft and art. I hope this pattern helps you tell your quilting story! https://mijahandmade.com/free-patterns daily 0.75 2025-10-12 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/04f5dbf2-f1fb-4d55-837b-17874fd74592/9E4E3FDD-1FE0-4B39-8814-1AD0D1079DD3.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1674673027796-1GTID7EAA839UV5AQRG9/Packing+Cube+1.JPG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/8c748183-6beb-4f38-a1da-fb73115a5fb4/L1061681.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1694471832758-KAMEXM4XJSSRVD6EPX7I/ErinWhinnery_ContinentalDivide2.jpg https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/22cf73ee-208a-4494-95c5-1934efea61ac/hexie+flower.jpeg https://mijahandmade.com/holly-scrap-ornament daily 0.75 2022-11-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/8c748183-6beb-4f38-a1da-fb73115a5fb4/L1061681.jpg https://mijahandmade.com/about daily 0.75 2025-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/1620676119449-QWSTQGMOOZS4GGTW4WVI/about+image.png About Mija Handmade - Hi! I’m Erin Nichole, the head, heart and hands behind Mija Handmade. In Spanish, mija means “my daughter”. All of my sewing is a love letter to my mother, the first woman to call me mija. On any given day, I’m probably designing, sewing or wrapped in a quilt. I don’t have any formal art or design education, but I don’t think those things are necessary for exploring creative design. Most of my design inspiration comes from found compositions like you’d find in building architecture, fences or stairways. Mija Handmade patterns are recognizable by their modern and geometric sense of movement, repetition, and scale. I love combining strong lines with bright colors. I hope you find a little bit of beauty in my quilts, and can picture them living happily in your home! https://mijahandmade.com/hexie-flower-handout daily 0.75 2025-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/22cf73ee-208a-4494-95c5-1934efea61ac/hexie+flower.jpeg https://mijahandmade.com/newsletter-sign-up daily 0.75 2025-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/f5b40ebf-7f38-4fb8-9e63-294b922a3869/IMG_1150.jpeg https://mijahandmade.com/learning-curves-bom-homepage daily 0.75 2026-10-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/ecc4d5ef-bc28-4d49-a511-6e8c18e7e02d/Lillette.png Learning Curves BOM https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/cc6af013-fa74-4e13-8cfb-5297e614e261/Formal+Gardens.png Learning Curves BOM https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603f0ac7c9abde7476f140a3/d0add83f-1f67-493f-a9dd-b1bd48b2ec7b/Bear+Bloom.png Learning Curves BOM 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